
Book • n^ 



Copyright^ . 



h 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSED 




RECRUITS AT THE NAVAL TRAINING CAMP, PELHAM BAY, N. Y., 
LEARNING TO MAKE KNOTS 



f • irivirvrc 1 



KNOTS 



2 A study of Marlinespike Seamanship which Z 

embraces Bends, Hitches, Ties, Fastenings A 
8 and Splices and their Practical Application. 

With chapters on Cordage, Matting, n 

Hammock Making and Wire j 

Steel Work \ 

s 

^jlh Compiled and Edited by %ffh 

4} A. F. ALDRIDGE / 4} 

i i 

Dedicated to the Sailors 
of the United States 

i \ 

\ THE RUDDER PUBLISHING COMPANY g 

JL 9 Murray Street, New York City 0JU 



«*!* 






% 



COPYRIGHT 1918 

THE RUDDER PUBLISHING CO. 
NEW YORK, U. S. A. 

All Rights Reserved 



SEP 23 1118 



PRESS OF 

THOMSON & COMPANY 
9 Murray Street, New York 

©GU503498 ^ 



V 



CONTENTS 

Page 

History of Knots ----- 9 

Cordage - ------ n 

Rope and Its Care - - - - 15 

Simple Knots and Loops - • - - 21 

Knots for Uniting Ropes - - - 31 

Bends and Hitches ----- 36 

Knots Formed on Ropes by Their Own 

Strands ------ 50 

Shortenings ------ 68 

Ties -------- 73 

Purchases and Slings - - - - 79 

Fastenings, Moorings and Ring Knots - 88 

Lashings and Seizings - 101 

Splicing and Rope Work . - - - 112 

Wire Rope Splicing- - - - - 128 

Matting ------- 134 

Hammock Making ----- 146 



PREFACE 

The study of knots is always fascinating. To 
twist ropes so that they will hold and not break is an 
art that comes natural to the sailor and the amateur 
will watch him in wonder as he does his work. Knots 
are just as important in these days of steam vessels 
as they were in the days of the sailing vessel, and now 
when thousands of men are being trained to handle 
the fleets of vessels building tying knots is a part of 
their training. 

At the Naval camps and the nautical schools the 
men are trained in squads and with a little practice 
they soon acquire the art. To aid those students this 
book has been published. It has been compiled from 
American and British Government records and from 
many other sources, so that it is as complete a collec- 
tion of knots as it is possible to obtain. 

It will be of great assistance to men of the U. S. 
Navy, U. S. Naval Reserve, U. S. Junior Naval Re- 
serve, the U. S. Nautical Schools and the U. S. Power 
Squadrons who are working so loyally to aid their 
country in its time of need. To these men this book 
is dedicated in the hope that it may be of some help 
to them in their work. 



HISTORY OF KNOTS 

Knots, according to an ingenuous essayist, are 
probably as "old as human fingers" and their history 
is lost in antiquity. Doubtless when man was first 
placed on this earth he learned to make fastenings 
from the tendrils of climbing vines and trailing flowers 
which twist themselves into odd fastenings as they 
lift themselves from the earth. The first cords were 
probably twisted grasses and rushes. Since those 
early days knots, like Topsy, have "just growed" and 
man's ingenuity has enabled him so to arrange ropes 
and cords that they will sustain weights, fasten various 
articles together and take up strains so that they will 
hold under ordinary conditions. 

Seamen are credited with having devised the most 
knots. They have invented ties upon which depend 
the safety of their *ships and the lives of those on board. 
Operatives in many trades such as building have bor- 
rowed from the seamen their knots and applied them to 
their work. In some instances the land operator has 
invented new knots or ties to suit conditions not found 
on shipboard. 

To tie a knot properly or to be able to join ropes 
so that they will hold and withstand heavy strains is 



IO 

so important with seamen that careful attention is 
paid to the instruction of the men in this particular 
work. At the many naval training camps scattered 
about the country capable instructors show the re- 
cruits how to properly make knots, ties, hitches, bends 
and splices, and until the recruit knows how to handle 
ropes quickly and properly he is not much use at sea. 
In the nautical schools, too, and in the divisions of the 
U. S. Power Squadron much attention is paid to this 
part of the novice's instruction. 

The steamship is steadily driving the sailing vessel 
from the seas. Of course on a sailing ship, where 
every spar is stayed by rope and where all the sails, 
the propelling power, are handled by ropes, the ability 
to properly tie knots is more important than on a vessel 
driven by steam or oil engines, but on the powered 
vessel there are many occasions when it is necessary 
to have a knowledge of knots, particularly in handling 
cargoes, in making fast to piers or moorings, in towing, 
in handling boats, and in hundreds of other instances 
so that the steam engine is not making "marlinespike 
seamanships a lost art. 



CORDAGE 

Rope is a word that is taken to mean almost every 
pliable material. Technically a rope is a cord one inch 
or more in diameter. It is generally made of hemp, 
manila, coir, cotton, steel, iron or copper wire. In 
studying the nature and uses of knots, particularly 
those which come under the designation of splices, 
some knowledge of the mode and of the principles on 
which ropes are made, is essentially necessary. The 
simplest and most effectual mode of obtaining the 
united strength of fibres composing the rope would 
be to lay them side by side and fasten them together 
at each end as in the selvagee, which is described on 
page 120. This plan, even if the fibres of hemp 
were of the necessary length, would be open to many 
objections; hence it was necessary to devise some plan 
which would give unlimited length to the rope and at 
the same time preserve its torsion and portability. 
This has been achieved by the compression and twist- 
ing of the fibres in different directions, until they pro- 
duce a compact, hard and strong rope, neither breaking 
the fibres on the one hand nor leaving them so loose 
as to be easily drawn out from the mass on the other — 
either extreme would be equally fatal in its results 



12 

and injurious to the stability of the rope. This is 
achieved by the modern processes of rope making. 

First the fibres of hemp are loosely twisted to- 
gether, right-handed, and form what is technically known 
as yarn. Two or three yarns twisted together form a 




FIBRES TO CABLE 

strand; three strands form a rope and three ropes a 
cable. The diagram illustrates this clearly. A is a 
yarn teased out to show the original fibre ; B shows the 
yarn forming the strand ; the strands C, H, and J form 
the rope D ; the ropes D, F, and G form the cable E. 



13 

A hawser rope is composed of three strands laid up 
generally right-handed — that is, the direction taken 
by the strands in forming the rope always runs from 
left to right. 

A shroud-laid rope, also laid right-handed, consists 
of four strands with a heart in the center. 






HAWSER ROPE 



SHROUD-LAID ROPE 



CABLE-LAID ROPE 



A cable-laid rope is composed of three right-handed 
hawser-laid ropes laid up together left-handed, so that 
it may be said to consist of nine strands, or it may 
be formed by three left-handed ropes laid up right- 
handed. 



H 

Spun yarn is a number of yarns twisted up right- 
handed. The number varies from two to eight. 

Nettle stuff is made of two or three yarns laid to- 
gether and is used for making clews of hammocks, 
harbor gaskets, etc. 

Sennit is made of a number of yarns plaited up into 
square, round or flat sennit as required and used for 
various purposes. 

Junk consists of lengths of condemned cordage 4 
inches and above. 

Oakum is old rope unlaid and the yarns picked into 
hemp for caulking the seams in ships' decks or sides. 

Boltrope is cordage tarred and white, made of 
Italian hemp from y 2 inch to 6 inches. It is soft laid 
and well stretched and is used for roping sails and 
awnings. 

Hammock lashings and lanyards are of white Italian 
hemp i J //\. inch. 

Coir rope is three-stranded right-handed rope. The 
yarn is spun from the fibres of the cocoanut tree. It 
is one-third lighter than hemp but not nearly so dur- 
able. It soon rots after being wet, if not well dried 
before being stowed away. As it floats so light it is 
very useful for warps and is about a quarter the 
strength of hemp rope. 

Twine is made from very fine hemp. 



ROPE AND ITS CARE 

Rope — and a sailor's mind instantly pictures a ship. 
Ropes belong to a ship in his mind's processes and 
since man launched his first boat on the water, rope 
has been in one form or another part of a boat's equip- 
ment. Savages probably had ropes before they had 
boats, but with the development of the boat has come 
the development of rope into the product of today. 

Did you ever stop to think why rope is so much 
used aboard ships? What are the qualities which 
make it such a necessary part of a ship's gear? Ropes 
are primarily used to transmit power in a convenient 
way. If sailors could grasp the sail in their hands and 
clew it up no clew-lines would be necessary. But their 
arms are not long enough and the power would be 
spread over such a large area that it would become 
ineffective. A clew-line concentrates that power from 
that point of application to a convenient place for the 
sailor to apply it. An iron rod would do the same 
thing, you say. Yes, but an iron rod lacks two essen- 
tial qualities — lightness and flexibility. Flexibility is 
the cardinal virtue of a rope. When not in use it can 
be coiled down to a very small space and it can follow 
the wake of the worst helmsman without fear of 



i6 

breaking its back. A chain is flexible, but its own 
weight is so great that it is only of value for certain 
kinds of work. 

Ropes are made of organic material such as cotton, 
hemp, manila, grass, and of metals such as iron, steel, 
bronze and sometimes aluminum. 

The class of organic materials is classified as to the 
material and the manner in which they are made up. 
Grass, manila and hemp are spun into rope, while 
cotton is spun, braided and knitted. Braided and 
knitted ropes have the distinctive quality of being 
able to transmit torsional stresses such as a flexible 
shaft and are used for this purpose in the patent log- 
line. They are also free from turns, which makes 
them valuable as signal halyards, though by the use 
of small swivels this bad feature on spun rope has been 
overcome for use as signal halyards. When you do 
use cotton, remember it has a great ability for shrink- 
ing. Therefore, do not haul your halyards taut in 
dry weather and wonder wdiy they parted in the first 
rain-squall. 

If spun rope has ruined so many dispositions by the 
diabolical turn which it can foul itself into — why use 
it? Because that very same twist — the cause of so 
much cursing — is the secret of its strength. Rope is 
subjected to a tension or pull along the line of its 



17 

longest axis. The thread is made of little fibres which 
are twisted together. The threads are then twisted to 
make yarns or strands and the strands twisted or spun 
into rope or lines. Rope or lines are made up into 
hawsers. 

Take a coil spring and pull out the ends. If you 
put power enough on the wire it straightens out. This 
is exactly what happens when you put a strain on a 
rope ; the twists or turns try to straighten out, and 
iie in a straight line along the center. But there is yarn 
already in the center, and the coils are pressing in on 
all sides, squeezing it more and more as the load in- 
creases. Now the reason why the tw r o first fibres 
clung together when they were twisted was that this 
same pressure made the friction between the fibres so 
great that they could not slide by each other. This 
applies to the many hundreds of fibres which make up 
the rope as a whole. So the harder the pull the harder 
the squeeze and the harder it is for them to slip by 
each other. The fact that some pieces of fibre are first 
on the outside and then on the inside makes all get an 
equal share of the squeeze. Why does this not go on 
indefinitely? Because up to a certain load the ten- 
dency to cling together is greater than the reaction 
from the center, which has to push them apart, but 
when this pressure or reaction becomes greater than 



i8 

the friction the little fibres begin to slide and the ropes 
part. 

The smaller sizes of spun ropes of this organic class 
are designated by the number of threads used to make 
up the rope, such as nine-thread or eighteen-thread line. 
The larger sizes are designated by the number of 
inches of circumference, such as one-inch, three-inch, 
etc. Hawsers are measured by the circumference in 
inches. Spun ropes are three-stranded or four-stran- 
ded. A three-stranded rope is more flexible than a 
four, but a four has greater surface area for the same 
strength and weight and therefore wears longer. 

Hemp rope is harder and less flexible than manila 
and is used for standing rigging, while manila rope is 
used for running rigging. 

Grass or coir ropes are used where the rope is sub- 
merged often, as they do not rot when damp and can 
be stowed wet. They are very elastic and are specially 
used for towing light weights, such as targets in the 
Navy. 

Just a few hints about this general class of organic 
ropes: 

Always dry these ropes before stowing them to 
prevent rotting. 

Protect them from chafing by use of chafing gear 



19 

or reversing end for end to bring the wear in different 
places. 

Always coil down right-handed or with the sun. 

The greater the surface the less the wear on any 
one strand, so use four-stranded for ropes whose par- 
ticular wear is from chafing such as anchor warps, for 
small boats and boat-falls. A small size rope would 
often be strong enough but would chafe through 
quicker. 

Metallic or wire ropes are generally either iron, 
steel, bronze or combinations of metal strands spun 
with hemp or manila strands. 

Bronze rope is used for tiller ropes because it is 
non-magnetic and it will not rust. This is important, 
as tiller ropes are often in inaccessible places. If it 
does not pass near your compass and it is out where it 
can be easily examined and cared for to prevent rust- 
ing, a flexible steel tiller rope is cheaper and stronger 
for the same weight and also wears longer. 

Galvanized iron wire is used for standing rigging, 
and the rusting in places where turns have broken the 
surface coating, such as around thimbles of an eye 
splice, should be carefully looked for. Most sailors 
think it wiser not to paint wire except for decorative 
purposes. If it is painted be sure to remove all grease 
and water from the surface. 



20 

Steel rope is used for running rigging because of 
its flexibility and lightness. It is not adapted, how- 
ever, for small boats. 

A combination of alternate strands of wire and 
hemp is made into rope known as durable rope, and is 
used particularly for cargo falls and it is more flexible 
and more easily handled. 



SIMPLE KNOTS AND LOOPS 

All knots are begun with loops or hitches. These 
may be single or double as required. The simple hitch 
is self-explanatory, as are the underhand and the over- 
hand loops. The illustrations explain them clearly. 




SIMPLE HITCH 



UNDERHAND LOOP OVERHAND LOOP 



The Simple Knot begins with one of these loops by 
passing the loose end through the loop and then draw- 
ing it taut as shown in the diagram. 




SIMPLE KNOT 



FIGURE OF 8 KNOT 



The Figure of 8 Knot is known as the perfect knot. 
It is formed by an overhand and an underhand loop 
overlapping each other and the loose end passed 
through the loop. When drawn tight it bears a close 
resemblance to the Arabic numeral 8, hence its name. 



22 




DOUBLE KNOT NIPPED 



TREBLE KNOT 



OPEN 



The Double, Treble, Four-Fold, or Six-Fold Knots 

may be called compound knots. They are used often 
when it is necessary to shorten a rope a few inches or 
to increase the size or strength of a holding knot to 
prevent it passing through an eye or a block. These 
knots are made by passing the end of a rope twice, 
three times, or as many times as may be necessary, 
through a loop as shown in the Simple Knot. The 
diagrams show a double knot loosely formed and when 
nipped or drawn taut, and a treble knot in its open 
formation and pulled taut. 




FIVE-FOLD KNOT OPEN NIPPED 

The Five and Six-Fold Knots present handsome 
coils and are useful to travelers who do not wish to cut 
the precious cords of their baggage. 



23 

From Simple knots the student passes to loops, 
nooses and running knots. The Bight of a rope is the 
loop formed when a rope is bent back on itself. The 
Standing Part is the principal portion or longest part 
of the rope and the end is that part used in forming 
the knot or hitch. 

The Simple Running Knot is made by passing a 
hitch instead of the end of a rope when making a simple 




SIMPLE RUNNING KNOT TOMFOOL KNOT LOOP KNOT 

knot. The variations of this knot are numerous. 
When the loose end is knotted with a simple perfect 
or double knot it forms one of the most useful and 
easily made loops. 

The Tomfool Knot is a double loop through a simple 
knot. This knot is also known as the Single Pitcher 
Knot. It is said that this knot has baffled many ex- 



perts who profess to be able to break any knot. It is 
made like the running knot. The firm end is then 
passed through the open, simple knot so as to form a 
double loop or bow. If the wrists are passed within 
the loops, the loops then drawn taut and the loose ends 
tied firmly around the central part a pair of very good 
handcuffs is furnished. 




LOOP KXOT FOR LARGE CORDAGE 

The Loop Knot is the ordinary useful loop of every- 
day life and it forms the foundation for many more 
elaborate knots and for shortenings. A more orna- 
mental and even stronger loop, which is well adapted 
for large cordage, is made by the figure 8 knot. This 
loop, like the common loop knot, when once made and 
has been subjected to a lengthened strain, is very diffi- 
cult to untie. In this case there is nothing better than 



25 

a running knot with a check knot, which is a modifica- 
tion of the fisherman's knot. A simple knot is tied 
over the running line as shown in the figure. After 
use it may be easily drawn apart, the loop slipped and 
the knot untied in very short time. 





BOWLINE KNOT 



26 



The Bowline Knfct cannot slip and is therefore al- 
ways used for slinging a man for the purpose of doing 
some particular piece of work ; the workman sits in the 
sling. First take the part Z in the right hand with Y 





FIG. 1 



FIG. 
RUNNING BOWLINE KNOT 



in the left hand, place Z on Y, and, turning the left 
hand over from you to the left, form a loop and reeve C 
as shown by the dotted line and haul taut. 

The Running Bowline is used whenever a running 



27 

noose is required. Form a loop with a long end C 
lying underneath the standing part as shown in Fig. i. 
Now bring end C over part Y and with it form the 
bowline knot on part Z as in the previous case it was 





FIG. 1 

BOWLINE ON THE BIGHT 



FIG. 2 



formed on its own part, when it will appear as in 
Fig. 2. 

The Bowline on the Bight is used for lowering a 
man from aloft or slinging a man over the ship's side. 
Using both parts of the rope together, commence as 



28 

in making an ordinary bowline. To finish off, open 
out bight C, taking it in the direction indicated by the 
dotted line, pass the whole knot through it and haul 
taut when it will appear as in Fig. 2. 

A Simple Clinch is formed by closing up the initial 
loop to form a small ring and securing, by a seizing, 
a small lashino- at D. 






SIMPLE CLINCH RUNNING OR INSIDE CLINCH OUTSIDE CLINCH 



A Running or Inside Clinch is formed by the end of 
a rope on its own standing part and is often used for 
securing buntlines to the foot of a sail. 

An Outside Clinch is formed in a similar way but 
the end, C, is brought round on top, that is, away from 
the bight. 



29 

The Standing Bowline Knot is formed by passing 
the loose end through the lower loop of a figure 8 knot 
and seizing or tying the end with small cord or 
marline. 

Slip Clinches are very easily made. They are really 
open running knots seized instead of tied. 






STANDING BOWLINE AND SLIP CLINCHES SEIZED 



The Running Noose is one of the most common and 
useful of running knots used in commerce but it is 
only applicable to small cords. A simple knot is made 



3Q 

on the end of the cord which is then simply knotted 
round. 

The Crossed Running Knot is useful in packing- 
heavy goods as well as a useful anchor fastening. 





RUNNING NOOSE 



CROSSED RUNNING KNOT 



KNOTS FOR UNITING ROPES 

The most common knots, those used in everyday 
life, are to unite the ends of two separate pieces of 
cord or rope. 




FIG. 



FIG. 2 



REEF KNOT 



The Reef Knot is the simplest of all knots and al- 
ways used when a common tie is required. The two 
illustrations show how this knot is made. Having 
constructed the knot as far as Fig. I, be sure part A 
is kept in front of part B as shown, and the end led 
in according to the direction of the dotted line. 




FIG. 1 FIG. 2 

FALSE OR GRANNY KNOT 



FIG. 3 



32 

If the cords be of unequal thickness the knot will 
slip, form a loop and part company, as shown in the 
first of the illustrations (page 31), (Fig. 1). If the ends 
are not parallel to the rope it becomes the False Knot 
or Granny Knot. Figs. 2 and 3 show the difference. 

A better way to fasten two ropes of unequal size 
is to tie or seize the ends (Fig. 1 below) and when this 
is done as shown the square knot or reef can be made 
as usual. 




fig. 1 



FIG. 2 FIG. 3 

OPEN-HAND KNOT 



The Open-Hand Knot is a good one for joining two 
ropes of unequal diameter. It is very quickly made 
and has the recommendation of never slipping or un- 
tying. If, however, a great strain is put on the rope 
it is apt to break at the knot. The illustrations above, 




fig. 1 fig. 2 

weaver's knot 



FIG. 3 



33 

one showing the open formation (Fig. 2), and the' other 
its back view when drawn taut (Fig. 3), explain the 
process of making. 

The Weaver's Knot is very useful in joining small 
cord or twine and is the best for thread. The ends 
are crossed as in Fig. 1 and both cords are held between 
the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. The right 
end, A, is then looped back over the left end and 
brought under the thumb, where it is held fast, while 
the right hand end, B, is slipped through the loop. 
The knot (Fig. 3) is then formed by tightening the 
right hand cord. If cord thicker than thread is used, 
the end, B, must be held between the thumb and 
ringer of the left hand while the knot is being drawn 
taut, as in Fig. 4 (below). 




FIG. 4 FIG. 5 FIG. 6 

FISHERMAN'S KNOT 

The Fisherman's or Englishman's Knot is of quite 
another character. It is formed by two simple knots 
(Fig. 7) slipped over each cord as in Fig. 5, and when 
drawn taut its front appearance is seen in Fig. 6. It 
is used by anglers, as it may be separated by taking 
the ends A and B in Fig. 6 so as to admit a third line. 



34 




FIG. 7 FIG. 8 

ORDINARY KNOT OR TIE 



FIG. 9 



The Ordinary Knot or Tie for uniting large ropes 
is shown in Fig. 8. It has all the advantages of the 
open-hand knot, with the additional recommendations 
that it is easy to make, very strong and does not strain 
the fibres of the rope. First make the simple knot 
(Fig. 7) and then interlace the other cord in the man- 
ner shown in Fig. 8. When drawn taut it has the 
appearance of Fig. 9. If the ends are whipped it is 
really a neat and handsome as well as useful knot. 




SHORTENING TIE 

The Shortening Tie is used when there is too much 
rope and where it is necessary to use a large knot for 
the purpose of preventing its running too far through 
the eye, ring or loop. It is formed by making the 
figure of 8 knot at the end of a rope, then interlacing it 



35 

with another rope, and when drawn taut it has the 
appearance of the third diagram. 




A ROPE YARN KNOT 

A Rope Yarn Knot is for joining two yarns together 
and is clearly shown in the diagram. 



BENDS AND HITCHES 

It is rather difficult to say where knots end and 
bends begin, because a tie made in a particular way 
and under certain circumstances may be called a knot, 
but differently constructed and under other conditions 




HALF HITCH 



TIMBER HITCH 



it is called a bend or a hitch. The result is the same 
in each case. A single hitch may be merely a loop 
formed in a rope. 

A Half Hitch is used generally in conjunction with 



37 

other hitches. Its formation is easily seen from the 
diagram. 

The Timber Hitch is used to secure the end of a 
rope to a spar, also for bending a rope round light 
cases, bales, etc., when provisioning ships. It is 
formed by making a half hitch with rather a long end 
and expanding the end backwards round its own part. 
It is used also with a half hitch for towing spars, as 
shown in the diagram below. 




TIMBER HITCH FOR TOWING SPARS 

The Crabber's Eye Knot is not well known but is 
one that is not likely to part when strained. To make 
it bring the end back to form a loop, taking it first 
under and then over the standing part, up through the 
main loop, over the standing bight again and up 
through its own bight. Before the turns are hauled 
into their places, the knot will slip on the part A, as in 
an ordinary knot. If the part B is hauled upon the 
strand, A, which passes through the center knot, 
rises and the coil which goes round it jambs, making 



38 

the knot secure so that it may be used as a running 
knot or otherwise, as desired. 

A Buntline Hitch is commenced as in making an 
outside clinch but instead of putting on a seizing, the 
end is passed over and through the bight, as clearly 
shown in the diagram. 





CRABBER'S EYE KNOT 

The Clove Hitch is really 
hitches and is generally used 
to be secured to a larger one 
for use for further purposes, 
to the shrouds, and used also 
butt slings. Its formation can 
in the diagrams. 



BUNTLINE HITCH 

a jambing of two half 
when a small rope has 
and the end kept free 
as in securing ratlines 
for securing the end of 
be followed very easily 



39 




CLOVE HITCH 



The Roband Hitch is very useful when a tackle, 
hook, ring or another rope is to be fastened to a beam 





ROBAND HITCH 



SLIPPERY HITCH 



40 



or spar. This is another simple hitch, clearly illus- 
trated in the diagram. 

The Slippery Hitch is valuable because of the ease 
with which it can be cast off in an emergency. It will 
hold securely while there is a strain on the rope. 





FIG. 1 



FIG. 2 



ROLLING HITCH 



The Rolling Hitch is commenced and finished like 
a clove hitch, but, as can be seen from the figures, there 
is an intermediate round turn between the first and 
last hitches. It will be seen that the round turn in 
Fig. 2 is taken around both the standing part, A, and 
the larger rope B. The great value of this hitch is that 



41 



it does not slip, and this can be rendered doubly sure by 
backing the end, C, round the part, D, and securing 
the end with a strop. It is used for bending a small 
rope to a larger one, for putting a tail jigger on a rope, 
and for securing hammocks to gantlines. 





FIG. 3 



FIG. 4 



ROLLING HITCH 



The Double Blackwall Hitch is made by taking the 
bight of the rope and placing it across the neck of the 
strop of the block, crossing it behind, then placing the 
under part over the hook and crossing the upper part 



42 

on top of it. It holds better than the two preceding 
hitches. 

The Marling Hitch is for lashing up hammocks or 
putting temporary seizing on two ropes or spars. It 
is also used when making swabs. 

The Midshipman's Hitch is used at times instead of 





DOUBLE BLACKWALL 
HITCH 



MARLING 
HITCH 



MIDSHIPMAN'S 
HITCH 



a Blackwall Hitch and it will hold better if the rope is 
at all greasy. It is made by first forming a Blackwall 
hitch and then taking the underneath part and placing 
it over the bill of the hook. 

The Killick Hitch is a modification of the timber 
hitch. After making a timber hitch and hauling it 
taut, a single hitch is made and slipped over the end 



43 

of a stone. This makes a secure anchor on fishing 
grounds on rocky coasts where an anchor will not hold. 

The Magnus Hitch is a method of securing a rope 
to a spar. Take the end of the rope twice round a 
spar in front of the standing part, round the spar again 
and then pass it through the last bight. 

The Round Turn with Two Half Hitches is used to 
secure a hawser to the ring of a buoy and the rope in 
this case should be parcelled as shown in the diagram. 




KILLICK HITCH 



MAGNUS HITCH 



The Marline Spike Hitch is used for heaving the 
turns of a seizing taut with a marline spike or hooking 
the hook of tackle to any rope where a small pull is 
required. It is formed by the standing part being 
picked through a loop laid over it, so that the spike 
lays under the standing part and over the sides of 
the loop. Its advantage is that it never jambs. . 



44 



The Blackwall Hitch is used for hooking a tackle 
to a rope and bringing the fall of one jigger to the 
double block of another. It consists of a half hitch, 





ROUND TURN WITH 
TWO HALF HITCHES 



MARLINE SPIKE 
HITCH 



BLACKWALL HITCH 



and as soon as any strain comes on it the standing 
part, A, jambs the end part, C. By taking another 
round turn at B, before passing C under A, it will hold 
more securely. 




STUN' SAIL HALYARD BEND 



45 



A Stun'sail Halyard Bend is simply a Fisherman's 
bend with the end backed again over the last round 
and under the first. 




TOPSAIL HALYARD BEND 



The Topsail Halyard Bend is made by bringing the 
rope twice round the spar, back over the standing part, 
under all turns, over two turns and under the last. 
Then jamb all the coils close and haul taut. 






SHEET BEND 



46 

The Sheet Bend, as its name implies, is the method 
of attaching the sheet to the clew of the sail. It is also 
used for securing boats' lazy painters to the Jacob's 
ladders of the lower booms. In making a bend the 
ends of the two ropes are not used simultaneously 
as in forming reef knots, but an eye or loop is first 
formed in the end of one of the ropes as seen in the 
first diagram and the other rope's end is then rove 
through it in the various ways required. To form a 
Sheet Bend pass the second rope's end underneath the 
eye at point A and bring up through the loop, then 
form with it a half hitch round C and B. It will hold 
still better and is less likely to jamb, if the end is 
passed round again as in the third diagram. This is 
called a Double Sheet Bend. 





FISHERMAN'S BEND 



47 

The Fisherman's Bend is formed by taking two 
round turns around the object to which the rope is to 
be secured and then backing the end round in the form 
of a half hitch under both the standing part and the 
second round turn. The end may be further secured 
by taking a half hitch around its own part or by stop- 
ping it to it. The dotted line in the first diagram shows 
the direction the end C must take. This bend is used 
for bending a hawser to the ring of an anchor or a 
rope's end to a bucket. 




SIMPLE HAWSER BEND 

The Hawser Bend is so easy as to be constantly 
used when only a temporary purpose has to be served. 




BOWLINE BEND (UPPER) 



HALF HITCH AND SEIZING BEND 



4 8 

The Bowline Bend is the strongest of all knotted 
hawsers. It is formed of two Bowline knots, one cross- 
ing the loop of the other as shown in the diagram. 

The Half Hitch and Seizing Bend is used on haw- 
sers which are to be joined for a long period. Its for- 
mation is shown in the illustration clearly. 

The Carrick Bend is for bending two hawsers to- 
gether when required to go around a capstan. First 





CARRICK BEND 

form with hawser No. I a loop as in the upper diagram. 
Pass the second hawser under the first at A, bring up 
through the eye B, back it over the cross at C and 
bring up again towards you through the eye B, and 
then stop the ends of each hawser to their own respec- 
tive parts as shown in the lower diagram. 

A Double Carrick Bend is formed in precisely the 
same way, but a complete round turn is taken around 



49 

the cross of the first hawser and then led up again 
through the eye and finished off. 




DOUBLE CARRICK BEND 





CHAIN HITCH 

The Chain Hitch is used to attach a small rope to 
aid in pulling a larger. When it is necessary to use 
a lever as a handspike the fastening in the lower dia- 
gram is used. First a clove hitch is formed to the 
spar and as many single hitches as required are then 
made. It may be finished off with any secure knot. 



KNOTS FORMED ON ROPES BY 
THEIR OWN STRANDS 

If ropes, hawsers or cables are left with their ends 
unguarded, they are sure to become untwisted or other- 
wise unmanageable. The same is true in a lesser de- 
gree of lanyards and smaller ropes. These can easily 
be secured with a fine whipping and the smaller yarns 
and threads by a single overhand or other knot. The 
ends of ropes at sea are variously treated. In some 
instances they are finely tapered to a point, to pass 
easily through a block or ring. While some of these 
knots for guarding the rope ends may seem fanciful 
they are by no means merely ornamental and many of 
them play important parts in the standing rigging of a 
ship. 

At first glance some of these knots may appear to 
be very intricate and difficult to make. They are not 
as difficult as their pictures would seem to indicate 
and a little thoughtful study, carefully following the ex- 
planatory diagrams, will smooth away all troubles. 

To Whip a Rope first lay the end of a length of 
twine along the end of the rope, and then, commencing 
at the part furthest from the rope's end take a half 
dozen or more turns around both the rope and the 



Si 

twine, as shown in the first diagram. Then lay the 
twine in the form of a loop along the rope and over 
the turns already taken as seen in the second diagram. 
To finish off take that portion of the loop designated. 
A, and continue taking turns tightly round the rope 
and part, B, of the twine until the loop is all used up. 
Pull through the remainder snugly by part C and cut 





WHIPPING A ROPE 

off short when no end of twine will be visible as in 
the third diagram. 

A Palm and Needle Whipping is a permanent way 
of securing a rope's end from fraying and better than 
the whipping put on by hand. First place the needle 
under one of the strands and draw nearly the whole 
length of twine through. Take a number of turns 



52 

round the rope with the twine, drawing each well taut 
in turn, and finish up by following round with the 
needle between each strand, forming a series of wrap- 
pings, and cut off the end of the twine. 



PALM AND NEEDLE WHIPPING 

To point a rope first put on a stop at two and one 
half times the circumference of the rope from the 
end, which will leave about the length for pointing. 
Unlay the rope to the stop, then unlay the strands, 
split a number of the outside yarns and make a nettle 
out of each yarn. A nettle is made by laying up the 
yarns with the finger and thumb left-handed. When 
the nettles are made up stop them back on the stand- 
ing part of the rope. Then w r ith the rest of the yarns, 
form the point by scraping them down to a proper 
size with a knife and marl them down together with 
twine. Divide the nettles, taking every other one up 



53 

and every other one down. Pass three turns with a 
piece of twine which is called the warp very taut round 
the part where the nettles separate taking a hitch 
with the last turn. Repeat this process by placing 
every alternate nettle up or down, passing the warp 
or rilling, taking a hitch each time until the point is 
to its required length. You may either form a bight 




POINTING A ROPE 

with the last lay by passing the warp through the 
bights, haul them taut, and cut them off, or, work 
a becket in the end by taking a small piece of rope one- 
fourth the size of the rope, form a bight, unlay the 
ends, and twist the six strands up again by two taking 
some of the inside yarns and lay them up as the rope, 
then short splice that and the becket together and 
marl it down. 



54 

The Wall Knot is used for finishing off seizing- 
forming a shroud knot. It is also used on the end of a 
rope to prevent it unreeving. To form a wall knot 
first unlay the rope so that the strands appear as in 
the first diagram below. 




WALL KNOT 



Holding the rope with the left hand, with the right 
lead strand A in the direction indicated, viz., under 
strand B and up between strands B and C as in the 
second diagram. 




WALL KNOT IN MAKING AND FINISHED 



Then with strand B form a similar loop, enclosing 
strands A and C and bringing the end of strand B up 
between A and D as in the first diagram above. 

Now with strand C form a similar loop enclosing 
strands B and A by leading the end of strand C up 
through the loop E in strand A as in the second 



56 

diagram. Finally work all parts well taut, whip the 
ends of the strands together and cut off short, at the 
bottom diagram. 






CROWNING 

A Double Wall Knot is formed by making the 
single wall knot first and not hauling it taut. Then 
take one end and bring it underneath the part of the 
first walling next to it and push it up through the 
same bight. Do the same with the other strands, 
pushing them up and through two bights. If made 
this way it* will have a double and a single crown. A 
double wall double crowned is a continuation of the 
double wall. The strands are laid by the side of 
those of the single crown and pushed through the same 
bight in the single crown and down through the double 
walling- as shown in the illustration. The middle 



57 

figure shows one method of finishing a single wall but 
cutting off the strands and tying them with twine. 
The double crowned wall knot may be finished by a 
Lark's Nest by interlacing the loose strands one within 
another by a requisite number of turns over the pud- 
ding. This forms a knot at the end of the rope. 




CROWN KNOT 



MANROPE KNOT 



The Crown Knot or crowning forms the basis of 
other knots. To make a crown pass the bights of the 
first and second strands over the second and third 
strands respectively, dip the end of the third down 
through the bight of the first and work the knot into 
shape. Its construction can be followed very easily 
in the diagram. Double crowning is done by follow- 
ing round each strand again alongside the first lead. 



58 

The Manrope Knot is used for securing the upper 
ends of the gangway manropes. It is made by first 
forming a wall and then crowning it as in the first 
diagram. Then follow round the wall again and 
lastly follow round the crown, when the finished knot 
will appear as in the second diagram. 

The Stopper Knot is used in the ends of stoppers 
and is made by forming a wall and half a wall, putting 
on a good whipping about two or three inches from 
the knot and cut off the ends. 






TURK'S HEAD KNOT 



The Turk's Head Knot is worked upon a rope with 
a piece of small line. Take a clove hitch slack with 
the rope with the line round the rope. Then take one 
of the bights farmed by the clove hitch and put it over 
the other, pass the end under, and up, through the bight 
which is underneath. Then cross the bights again 
and put the end round again, under, and up, through 
the bio-ht which is underneath. After this follow the 



59 

lead and it will make a turban of three parts to each 
cross. 

Single Matthew Walker Knot is used for securing 
the standing part of a rope or making beckets for 
buckets, etc. To make this knot begin as for the wall 
knot but pass the first strand A under both B and C 
as shown in the first diagram. Then pass B under 
both strands C and A, and bring up through the first 
loop formed by A, shown in the second diagram. 




SINGLE MATTHEW WALKER KNOT 



6o 

Similarly pass C under A and B and bring up 
through the loops first formed by A and B as seen 
in the third diagram. 




THIRD PROCESS OF MATTHEW WALKER KNOT 

The Double Matthew Walker is easily made when 
one notices the difference between a single Matthew 
Walker and a wall knot. In the wall knot each strand 
is simply interlaced with the strand immediately on 
its right coming up through the loop formed by the 
second strand. In the single Matthew Walker each 



6i 





DOUBLE MATTHEW WALKER OPEN AND TAUT 

strand interlaces the two strands to its right coming 
up through the loop of the third strand. Another 
evolution in the same order gives the double Matthew 
Walker. It is formed as will be seen in the diagram 
by making each strand contain its own loop, the other 
two strands and its own end, that is, each strand leads 



62 

up through its own bight after interlacing the other 
two. 




SINGLE DIAMOND KNOT MAKING 

The Single Diamond Knot is made some distance 
from the end of a rope. It is therefore necessary to 
unlay the rope considerably more than is required in 
the preceding knots and as the strands will have to 
be laid up again, try to preserve the original lay in 
the strands as much as possible. Now bring each of 
the three strands down alongside the standing part 
of the rope, thus forming three bights, and hold them 
thus with the left hand. Take the first strand A as 
shown in the diagram and putting it over the next, 
B, bring it up through the bight of the third strand, C. 



63 




DIAMOND KNOT 

Take the end of the second strand over the third 
and up through the bight of the first. The last strand 
is brought over the first and up through the bight of 
the second. Haul taut and lay the rope up again. 
The first diagram above shows the loops in their places 
with the ends through them before they are hauled 
taut and the second diagram shows the completed knot, 




DOUBLE DIAMOND KNOT 



64 i 

The Double Diamond Knot is made first like the 
single diamond and then the ends are made to follow 
the lead of the single knot through two single sights, 
the ends coming out on top of the knot. The last 
strand passes through two double bights. The ends 
are then hauled taut and laid up as for the manrope 
knot. 





SHROUD KNOT 

The Shroud Knot is of use in joining two ropes 
together, particularly in joining a stay or shroud that 
has been carried away. Each rope is unlaid the neces- 
sary length and they are then brought close together. 
A wall knot is formed on each rope with the strands 



65 

of the other as seen in the first diagram. The com- 
pleted knot is seen in the second diagram but to mak? 
a neat job the ends should be marled and served as 
in the third diagram. 





SNAKING AND SEIZING 



Snaking or Seizing is done by taking the end under 
and over the outer turns of the seizing alternately, 
passing over the whole. The whole may be whipped 
also with small twine. The ends of a four-stranded 
rope may be thus secured. The end is first whipped 
as shown at A in the diagram. The four strands are 
then opened out. They are then brought down over 
the end in loops and the strands tied together, as in 
the second diagram, or they may be simply brought 

5 



66 



down and bound to the cable with twine, as shown in 
the third diagram. 





SPRITSAIL SHEET KNOT 

A Spritsail Sheet Knot is made by unlaying both 
ends of a rope and bringing the two standing parts 
together as in the first diagram. Grasp both parts of 
the rope at A, with the six strands form a wall knot, 
that is, by passing 2 under 2, 2 under 3, 3 under 4, 4 
under 5, 5 under 6 and 6 under the loop formed by 1. 
Now lay any opposite two of the strands across the 



6; 

top in an opposite direction and crown by passing the 
other four, each in turn, alternately over and under 
these two. Each of the six strands will then come 
out leading in a downward direction alongside the 
strands forming the first walling. Now follow round 
the walling again, when the strands will come through 
in an upward direction, each alongside a strand of the 
first crowning. Follow through the crowning once 
more and cut off the short ends, when a handsome and 
useful stopper knot will result as in the second diagram. 



SHORTENINGS 

Shortenings are, as the term implies, knots that 
take up the surplus cord and keep the ends from being 
in the way. A piece of rope or cord is often too 
long and to cut it would be waste, so a shortening 
knot is used. Sometimes the tie, four, five or six-fold 
knots are used for this purpose. 




SINGLE PLAIT OR CHAIN KNOT 



The Single Plait, or as the sailor terms it, the 
Chain Knot, is the commonest of all these knots. First 
make a running loop and then draw the loose end 



69 

through the loop and repeat this operation until all 
excess of cord has been taken up. The end may be 
secured by bringing the end of the rope through the 
loop or by passing a belaying pin through the loop. 
These two methods are illustrated in the diagram. 




TWIST KNOT 

The Twist Knot is an ordinary three plait, although 
it is formed with one piece of rope. It is more use- 
ful than when formed of three separate pieces, for the 
ends are fastened and it cannot come undone. To 
make this twist hold the double loop in the left hand; 
the side A is then brought over to B, with a half 
turn B is crossed over to A and the process of an 
ordinary three plait is continued until the end of the 
rope is reached, when the loose end is passed through 
the bight and the knot is fastened and completed. 

The Double Chain Knot is very easily made, if the 
first loop is made secure by a twist in the rope as 
shown in the diagram, and then pass the loose end 



7° 




DOUBLE CHAIN KNOT 

through the preceding loop right and left until the 
knot is finished. 




SHEEP SHANK OR DOG SHANK 



7i 

The Sheep Shank, or Dog Shank as it is sometimes 
called, is an old-fashioned method of shortening a 
rope and can be used on any sized cordage. It is 
used for shortening a rope which requires lengthen- 
ing again. Gather up the amount to be shortened in 
the form of the upper illustration. Then with parts 
A and B form a half-hitch round the tw^o parts of the 
bight as in the second figure. 

To render it still more dependable the bights A and 
B may be seized or toggled to the standing parts as 
in the third and fourth figures. 



"J233SSSSS 




BEND SHORTENING 

Bend Shortening or Simple Loop is a plain, useful 
expedient for stout rope and has the merit of not in- 
juring the ropes by an unnecessary strain, or cross- 
ing the fibres of the hemp. It will not, however, 
stand any great strain. 




BOW SHORTENING 



72 

The Bow or Knot Shortening is very quickly made. 
It is simply an ordinary knot in the middle of a rope 
in which a double bend has previously been made. It 
is not adapted to heavy ropes nor will it stand a heavy 
strain. 





CATSPAW 



The Catspaw is one of the easiest made loops to be 
used for hooking on the block of a tackle or shortening 
up a bale sling stop. First throw back a bight as 
shown in the first diagram. Then taking hold of A 
and B, one in each hand, twist them up as in the second 
diagram. Bring the two eyes A and B together and 
hook in the tackle. 



TIES 

When the many varieties of knots and ties are 
analyzed it will be found that ties used in trades are 
all taken first from the mariner. The sailor learned 
to fasten ropes so that they were able to take up all 
strains evenly and to hold without chafing or with- 
out any undue strain being put on any one part of the 
rope. Consequently when builders erect scaffolding 
they use the ties and knots long known at sea. The 
Clove Hitch is also known as the Builder's Knot be- 
cause it is used to hold the scaffolding. The Clove 
Hitch is used by surgeons in cases of dislocation. 
The Reef Knot is also used by surgeons to tie arteries 
when performing operations. So it is with many other 
knots and because of their uses for other than nautical 
work thev have often received other names. 



to 




SIMPLE KNOT 



74 

The Simple Knot is the foundation for many ties. 
In the illustration this knot is seen made around a mast 
or other solid substance. This simple knot can at 
once become a clove hitch or the builder's knot which 
is illustrated on page 39. 




DOUBLE BUILDER'S KNOT DOUBLE BOW KNOT 

SINGLE BOW KNOT SINGLE TWIST KNOT 

The Double Builder's Knot is'shown in the diagram 
above, upper left. It is made in the same way as the 
clove hitch or builder's knot except that the end goes 



75 

around again as before and underneath its own part 
so making it much stronger. 

The Single Bow Knot is one of the most common 
of the knots in general use. It is commenced with 
the simple knot and made by doubling one of the 
loose ends as shown in the diagram. 

The Double Bow Knot or rosette knot is begun 
in the same way. Care must be taken to keep the 
simple knot taut until the bow knot is completed. 
The ends must lie straight as in the reef knot or it 
will become the false knot. 




DOUBLE TWIST KNOT 
TENT POLE KNOT 



RUNNING KNOT 
RUNNING KNOT CHECKED 



76 

The Double Twist Knot is useful when small cords 

are used and tightness is required. The diagram, 
upper left, on the previous page shows how it is made. 
The Tent Pole Knot, previous diagram, lower left, 
is one that can be used to advantage by all who have 
to occupy tents or to travel much. It is a simple loop 




RUNNING KNOT CHECKED BY A FLEMISH KNOT (LEFT) 
AND BY A CHECK KNOT (RIGHT) 

made by joining the two ends of a rope with a fisher- 
Tnan's knot. This admits a short cross-bar or wooden 
pin and it will enable the traveler to suspend clothes 
or other articles around a tent pole. The cord may 
also be used for a toggle when two pieces of wood 
have to be joined together. 



71 

A Running Knot with two ends is used when it is 

inconvenient to divide the rope. Unless the ends are 
at liberty it could not be used round a mast, but it 
can be easily slipped round a pier. 




STATIONER'S KNOT 



This knot is frequently checked by a bow as shown 
in the diagram, page 75, lower right. 

It is sometimes checked by a Flemish Knot or by 
a Check Knot. These two knots cannot be tied unless 
the ends are loose. They cannot be untied without 



78 

assistance from a marlinspike or some similar con- 
trivance. 

The Stationer's Knot is handy for tying a parcel 
as it can be made rapidly and undone with ease. 
Make a running noose at the end of a piece of twine 
and bring it to the center of the parcel. Take the 
twine round the parcel at right angles, round the noose 
and making a bight slip it under as illustrated. A 
pull at the end releases the knot instantly. 



PURCHASES AND SLINGS 

Single Whip — rope rove through a single block 
fixed in any position. It is used for light work. No 
power is gained. 

Double Whip — rope rove through two single blocks 
—upper block a tail block, lower one movable hook 
block. The standing part of the fall is secured close 
to the tail block. The power gained is double. 




SINGLE WHIP 



DOUBLE WHIP RUNNER GUN TACKLE 



8o 



Runner — a piece of rope rove through a single 
block with a standing eye in one end and pointed at the 
other. The power gained is double. 



Gun Tackle- 



-two single blocks. 



Power gained- 



1IANDY BILLY WATCH OK DOUBLE 

OR JIGGER LUFF TACKLE LUFF 



THREEFOLD 
PURCHASE 



twice or three times according to which is the movable 
block. 

Jigger — a small tackle for general use ; a double 
block with a tail called a jigger and a single block 



8i 

with a hook. The standing part of the fall is spliced 
into the strop of the single block. Power gained — - 
three or four times. 

Handy Billy is a small tackle for general use. 

Up and Down Tackle — a double and single block. 
The double block is fitted with a thimble, the single 
block is a hook block, fitted with a long strop. The 
standing part of the fall is spliced in the strop of the 
single block. Power gained — three times. 

Luff Tackle — two hook blocks, one double and one 
single. The standing part of the fall of this tackle is 
spliced into a strop of the single block. It is some- 
times rove through a becket in the single block and 
secured by being spliced round the strop at the neck 
of it. Power gained — three or four times. 

Double Luff Tackle — two double blocks. 

Threefold Purchase — two threefold blocks. Power 
gained — six or seven times. 

Fourfold Purchase — two fourfold blocks. Power 
gained — eight times. 

Single Spanish Burton — two blocks and a hook. 
Power gained — three times. It is not in general use. 

Burton — a double hook block and a single hook 
block, fitted with a long strop, the standing part being 

6 



82 

spliced round the strop and hook of the single block. 
Power gained — three times. 

Runner and Tackle — consists of three blocks, one 
double and two single. One of the single blocks is 




FOURFOLD SINGLE 
PURCHASE SPANISH 
BURTON 



DOUBLE SPANISH BURTON 



fitted with a thimble, as a lashing 



or shackling block, 
through which the runner is rove. The double block 
of the tackle is turned in one end of the runner. The 
standing part of the tackle is spliced in the seat of the 



83 

single block which is fitted with a lung strop and hook. 
Power gained — eight times. 

Double Spanish Burton — There are two forms of 
this purchase. One by using three single blocks and 
the other by using one double and two single blocks. • 
Power gained — five times. 




SPANISH WINDLASS 

A Spanish Windlass — To rig a Spanish windlass 
take a good strand well greased in the center. Place 
the strand over the two parts of the rope that are to 
be hove together and bringing the ends of the strand 
up again, place a bolt close to the strand. Take the 
ends of the strand and lay them up with their own 
parts so as to form two eyes. Take a round turn with 
this round the bolt, put a marline-spike in each eye 
and heave around. 



8 4 



A Parbuckle is used for hauling up or lowering 
down a cask, or any cylindrical object where there is no 
crane or tackle. Middle the rope to be used for the 
parbuckle, place the bight over a post or pin as most 
convenient ; the two ends are then passed under 
the two quarters of the cask, bring the ends back 
again over it and they both being hauled taut or 
slackened together either raise or lower the cask as 
may be required. Care must be taken to keep an equal 
strain on both parts to prevent the cask slipping out. 





PARBUCKLE Z BUTT SLINGS BALE SLINGS CAN HOOKS 

There are several methods of slinging a cask, viz., 
with butt slings, bale slings and head up, also by means 
of can hooks. 

A Butt Sling is a single piece of rope fitted with an 
eye splice in one end and the other end pointed or 
whipped. To sling the cask, the cask is placed on its 
bilge bung up ; reeve the end of the sling through the 
eye splice and place the loop thus formed over one 



85 

end of the cask between the first and second hoops and 
haul well taut, the eye splice being in line with the 
bungs; then take the end of the sling round the other 
end of the cask between the first and second hoops 
and clove-hitch it to its own part in line with the 
bung. 

A Bale Sling is a single piece of rope short spliced 
together. To sling a cask, the cask is placed on its 
bilge bung up, the slings passed underneath both ends 
of the cask between the first and second hoops ; the 
bights are then taken over the cask, and one bight 
passed through the other, taking care the cross is in 
line with the bung. 

Can Hooks are used for breaking off a cask, that is 
for lifting out the first e&sk of a tier where there is 
not room to put on a butt or bale sling. Casks are 
never hoisted up w r ith can hooks. 

To pass a life line dip the end under the slings and 
over the davit and take two or three turns round all 
parts and hold on to the end. 

To pass a life line for a "full due" proceed as above 
but substitute half hitches for round turns and tuck 
the end in. 



86 

To sling a cask head up the cask is placed on its 
end, pass a rope under the bottom fairly in the center, 
then form an overhand knot with both ends of the 
rope on the top of the cask, open the knot out and 
place bights over the head between the first and second 
loops, haul them well taut, then reef-knot both ends 
together on top. yj 



SLING A CASK ON END 

A Stropper is used for securing a rope while it is 
being belayed. Take the stropper in the left hand, 
make a half hitch against the lay, dog the end with the 
lay of the rope and seize it. With left-handed rope 
the end of the stropper should be passed under the 
rope from left to right. To put a strop on a hemp 
rope, center the bight of the strop and place it over the 



§7 



rope, then dog the ends opposite ways under and over, 
and hook on the tackle to both bights. 

To put a strop on a Spar use the ordinary bale sling- 
strop. 





TO PAN A 
STROPPER 



TO PUT A STROP ON A SPAR TAIL JIGGER 



A Tail Jigger is similar to a stropper but with an 
additional turn. To put on a tail jigger take the first 
two parts of a rolling hitch, dog the end with the lay 
and seize it. 



FASTENINGS, MOORINGS AND 
RING KNOTS 

A landsman is always fascinated by the ease with 
which the sailor will handle big ropes and the way in 
which he will warp a vessel in or out of a dock or 
moor it to a pier by the simple twisting of the cable 
round a post or cleat which are on the vessels them- 
selves or on the pier-head. 

The Simple Stoppered Loop is familiar to all and 
when the end of the rope can be constantly used no 
other fastening is required. 




LARK'S HEAD 



SIMPLE STOPPERED LOOP 



89 

A Lark's Head can easily be made over a post when 
there is a running noose or knot. This is clearly 
shown in the diagram. 




WATERMAN'S KNOT 



TWISTED ROPE FASTENING 



The Waterman's Knot is used when the end of the 
rope is not stoppered or when the middle of the rope 
must be used. This is similar to the clove hitch. It 
can very quickly be made by placing two loops on 
the rope as shown in the diagram. 

The holding power of a twisted rope is illustrated 
clearly in the diagram to the right of the Waterman's 
Knot. 



90 




TWO LOOPS OF A WATERMAN'S KNOT 



The Chain Fastening is of a more permanent 
character, and is used when a vessel is to be moored 
for any length of time. 




CHAIN FASTENING 



9i 

Square moorings or sheaves are occasionally used 
for the mooring of vessels. In these instances the 
fastenings vary. The diagram shows a double fasten- 
ing" to sheaves. 




DOUBLE CHAIN FASTENING TO SHEAVES 



A loop fastening to sheaves may be tied or untied 
without untying the loop itself. It is made by passing 
the loops, A, B, C, D, and E as shown and then placing 
the loop F over the head of the right-hand post of the 
sheaves. When slackened the loop of the cable F will 
again slip over the head of the post and the turns and 
then reversed. There is a more simple fastening by 
wrapping the cable round the angle of the sheaves. 



92 




LOOP FASTENING TO SHEAVES 

The crossed and square fastenings as shown in the 
diagrams need no explanation. The ends are secured 
by being stoppered to the cable. 




CROSSED AND SQUARE FASTENING 



93 




SQUARE FASTENING 

To secure a rope round a cleat first take a round 
turn, then a figure of 8 knot is made round the cleat 
pin and repeated twice. On no account should a half 
hitch be made over the pin or cleat afterwards. The 
main object is to insure that the rope will not jamb. 




HAULING 
PART 

TO SECURE A ROPE ROUND A BELAYING PIN OR ROUND A CLEAT 




94 

A study of the many knots used for fastenings or 
moorings show that they are only practical applica- 
tions of many of the knots, bends or hitches that have 
already been illustrated in preceding chapters of this 
book. 




FIG. 1 



FIG. 2 



FIG. 3 FIG. 4 FIG. 5 



FIG. 6 



The Sailor's Knot is a very simple mooring knot for 
the painter of a small boat. It is shown on Figs. I and 
2. This knot shows one line straight while the end is 
twisted round in two hitches. 

The Slippery Ring Knot is shown in Fig. 3. It can 
be cast off at any moment. Fig. 4 shows the same 



95 



knot but it is made permanent by being stoppered as 
seen in Fig. 4. The slippery ring knot has one turn 
in the ring. 

The Simple Boat Knot, Fig. 5, has an advantage for 
rapidity of unmooring. It is made with only one turn 



in the ring. 



The loose end is left longer than in the 




FIG. 7 



FIG. 8 



FIG. 9 



FIG. 11 FIG. 12 



diagram but as it sometimes catches in the ring it is 
not very popular with sailors. 

The Lark Boat Knot, Fig. 6, is really a double boat 
knot. It differs from the boat knot in that a bight 
instead of a single end of rope is put through the ring 
and a thole used to fasten it. 



96 

The Boat Knot, Fig. y, is made in the same way 
as the marline spike hitch, the only difference being 
that a thole pin or other small piece of wood is put 
through the center of the knot instead of a marline 
spike. By withdrawing the pin the knot comes adrift 
of its own accord. 

Simple and Crossed Running Knots are shown in 
Figs. 8 and 9. The simple fastening, Fig. 8, is not so 
secure, but chafes less than the crossed running knot, 
Fig. 9. 

The Capstan Knot, Fig. 10, is an application of the 
figure of 8 knot. To make this cross the end of the 
rope after it is through the ring, bring it round the 
standing part, through the first bight and through its 
own bight. 

The Lark's Head Knot, Fig. 11, is somewhat like 
the lark boat knot but instead of the ends being 
brought ' down outside the bight after being passed 
through the ring, they are put through it. This is seen 
in the ring part of. Fig. n. The whole illustration 
shows a Lark's Head stoppered. 

The Lark's Head Stoppered may be made by pass- 
ing a bight through the ring and drawing the two parts 
of the rope through the bight. Where this is not prac- 
tical by reason of one end of the rope being fast, the 
end may be passed up through the ring behind the 



97 

standing part and drawn down through the right and 
bight again. Sometimes instead of being stoppered 
with an overhand knot as seen in Fig. n the end is 
seized to the standing part with twine, as shown in 
Fig. 12. 

The Lark's Head with Crossed Ends in Fig. 13 is 




FIG. 13 



FIG. 14 



FIG. 15 



FIG. 16 



FIG. 18 



made in the same way as the Lark's head except that 
the end comes over instead of through the bight. If 
the standing part is taken in one hand and the end in 
the other and drawn apart this knot is the clove hitch 

or builder's knot. 

7 



98 

The Double Lark's Head, Fig. 14, is easily followed 
in the diagram. A bight is first made and the ends 
passed through it, the ends are then put through the 
ring and through the loop already made and hauled 
taut. 

The Treble Lark's Head, Fig. 15, is not as difficult 
as it appears in the diagram. First bring the bight of 
the rope up through the ring, then take one of the 
ends and pass it through the bight and up through the 
ring. Then put it down through its own bight. Do 
the same with the other part and the knot is formed. 

Back-Handed Sailors' Knots are shown in Figs. 16 
and 17. This knot is made by passing an end through 
the ring round at the back of the standing part and 
through the ring again, finishing with two half hitches 
round the standing part. 



gggggggag st 




A SLIP KNOT STOPPERED 

Slip Knots stoppered as shown in Fig. 18 and above 
are easily made and the diagrams show their formation 
clearly. 




SLIP KNOT AND SLIP CLINCH 

Slip Knot secured by a slip clinch is another simple 
knot and easily followed in the diagram. 




GUNNER'S OR DELAY KNOT 

The Gunner's Knot is simply a carrick bend made 
with the two ends of a rope after it has been passed 
through two rings. This is sometimes called a delay 
knot. 



IOO 



LEAD LINE AND LEAD 



Securing Lead Line to Lead.— The lead is fitted 
with a good wire grommet parcelled over. The lead 
line should have a long eye spliced in it and is secured 
by passing the eye through the grommet and over the 
lead. 

Hawsers are bent together by two half hitches and 
seizing the ends in addition to methods already ex- 
plained. 





BEND HAWSERS 



MOUSING A HOOK 



Mousing a hook is to prevent a chain or rope from 
slipping off or to prevent it becoming unhooked. A 
few turns of a rope yarn are passed round the ends 
of the hook and the standing part, the ends are brought 
round the middle a few times and fastened with a reef 
knot. 



LASHINGS, SEIZINGS, ETC. 

A practical knowledge of the proper way to lash a 
rope is necessary to anyone who has anything to do 
with a vessel no matter what its character. Occa- 
sions constantly occur on sea and on land, in fair 
weather and foul, to unite ropes on the bight or that 
are fitted with eyes or with other loops. 




RUNNING KNOT IN THE EYE OP A ROPE 

A Running knot fastened in the eye of a rope is the 
simplest of these knots. The diagram shows how this 
is made. 

The Dead-Eye Lashing is one of frequent use on 
board full-rigged ships. It admits of easy adjustment 
to the strain of the ropes. The ram blocks are fastened 
in the eyes, which are made by simple lashings and 
tightened by the lanyards, A, A, which pass through 



102 

holes on the deadeye, so as to tighten or slacken the 
rope at will. The ends of the lanyard are fastened to 
the main rope. 

The Belaying-Pin Splice as shown in the diagram 
really illustrates three methods of joining cordage. 
The belaying-pin is marked A. It is stoppered on the 
end of the rope and served with yarn, passed through 




DEAD-EYE LASHING 



BELAYING-PIN SPLICE 



the eye of the rope and at the other end a loop is 
formed. Through this loop or bend a button secured 
to the rope, B, by a single knot is passed, and the 
double junction is complete. 

The Wedding Knot or Rose Lashing is one to join 
two rope-ends both having eyes. The lashing is passed 
successively through both eyes and then tied in the 
center. 



103 

The Shell Lashing is made by looping two ends of 
rope around a spherical shell and seizing the end to the 
standing parts. 




WEDDING KNOT (UPPER) 



HSSBSHH^SSS' 



SHELL LASHING 




A CROSS LASHING 

A Cross Lashing is used when a lever is used to a 
rope. After several turns round the rope, the lashing- 
is crossed round the lever and fastened with a reef knot. 

The Portuguese Knot or Necklace Tie is made by 




PORTUGUESE KNOT OR NECKLACE TIE 



104 

taking several turns round the spars to be joined, then 
two turns round the lashings and secured with a reef 
knot. 




NIPPERING OR PACKING 

Nippering or Packing is a method for securing two 
ropes together with cross turns. These are hauled 
taut; and further secured by round turns over all after 
the ropes have been jambed together. The ends are 
fastened with a reef knot. 




WEST COUNTRY WHIPPING 



A West Country Whipping is formed by middling 
the twine around the part of the rope to be marked 
and half-knotting it at every half turn so that each 



knot will be on opposite sides. When a sufficient num- 
ber of turns are passed finish it off with a reef knot. 

To finish off a whipping without showing a knot lay 
one end forward as at A in the diagram, then pass the 



A 

FINISHING A WHIPPING 

other end round and round a sufficient number of 
times, hauling taut each time. Three or four loose 
turns are then made and the end passed under these 
backwards. These ends are worked down into their 
places and when they are hauled taut are cut off. 




A 

FINISHING A WHIPPING 

Another method is, instead of having a single end, 
a bight of the seizing is laid along the part to be 
whipped and the turns passed over it. When these are 



io6 

completed the end is passed through the bight at A. 
The end B is then hauled upon to bring the bight and 
the end of the rope snug under the coils. There are 
now two loops interlacing at the center of the work 
and these cannot come undone. When the ends are 
cut off close to the turns the whole is fair and smooth. 




^^N!y^Xtipy%]ptm!P' m 



A USEFUL BAND 



A useful band is shown in the diagram above. The 
second end B is drawn through by a turn — a very use- 
ful method of securing a ligature or a fractured fish- 
ing rod. 

The Packing Knot is used for binding timbers to- 
gether. The first diagram shows it started at A and B 




PACKING KNOT 



107 

shows it completed. It is tightened by means of a 
packing-stick, C, which is twisted under the knot and 
then twisted round and secured as shown. A quicker 
plan is two toggles shown in the second diagram. After 
twisting the sticks round tie the two ends of the sticks 
together. 




SIMPLE PACKING KNOT 

A Toggle is a piece of wood turned to shape and 
having a groove in the center round which the end of 
a rope is spliced. An eye is made in another rope by 
any method and the toggle is slipped into it. To un- 
fasten it the ropes are slackened. Another form of 
toggle is a round piece of wood shaped like a button. 





TOGGLES 



io8 

It has a hole in the center through which a rope is 
passed and the end knotted. 

The Jury, or Double Pitcher Knot as it is some- 
times called, is useful when a jury mast has to be 
rigged, as the loops form a means of attaching the 




m z 

JURY KNOT, FIRST STAGE 



necessary supports to the mast. The center K in 
the second diagram is slipped over the masthead and 
the weight brought on the stays tightens it and holds 
it in its position on the mast. 



109 

It is formed by three ordinary half hitches each 
placed behind the other with the loop of the last laid 
over the first. Keep the hitches together with the 
right hand and with the left take A and dip it under B 
and pull C through A and B. 

Then, holding the knot with the left hand, place F 
over E and pull D between E and F. Take G in the 




H 

JURY KNOT, COMPLETED 

teeth and pull on the parts G, F and A. The ends H 
and Z may be either knotted or spliced. 

Racking Seizing is used where the strain is on only 
one part of the rope. An eye splice is formed in one 
end of racking and the first turn is passed round both 
parts of the rope like a round seizing; it is then dipped 



no 



between both parts and the remaining turns are passed 
as racking turns, over and under, leaving sufficient 
space between each racking turn for a roundabout 






RACKING SEIZING 



Ill 

turn to lie, the usual number taken being thirteen. 
After these are passed the end is dipped down inside 
the last turn and the roundabout turns are passed from 
the end towards the eye between the racking turns. 
When the last roundabout turn is passed, the end is 
pased up between both parts of the shroud, ready for 
passing the cross turns, which are passed by taking the 
end along the seizing and passing it down between the 
seventh and sixth turns along the seizing, again to- 
wards the eye, up between the two parts of the shroud, 
as before, and again drawn between the seventh and 
sixth turns so as to form a clove hitch. Then finish 
ofif with a crown and wall as in other seizings. 

To make the racking neater after passing the last 
roundabout turn, the end is taken outside all parts of 
the racking instead of between the six and seven turns, 
and clove formed at the same time. 



SPLICING AND ROPE WORK 

It is sometimes necessary to unite hawsers, cables 
and even ropes in such a manner that there is no 
obvious difference in their diameter and no substantial 
weakening of their strength. This can be done only 
by splicing, that is, putting the ends together by open- 
ing the strands and placing them into one another, 
or if equal diameter is not essential by putting strands 
of the end of a rope between those of a bight. When 
ropes are knotted they cannot be run through a block. 
In driving ropes, too, knotting is out of the question. 
It is calculated that a splice will weaken the strength 
of a rope about one-eighth. 





SHORT SPLICE 



H3 

A short splice is used for joining any rope not 
needed to travel through a block. 

To make a short splice unlay the rope to the re- 
quired length which is twice the circumference of the 
rope for the long ends and one and a half times the 
circumference for the short ends. When this is done 
whip all the ends with yarn. The ends are then placed 
together as shown in the first diagram, the strands of 
one rope alternately between the strands of the other. 
The two ropes are then jambed closely together. The 
end of one rope with the strands of the other rope are 
now held firmly in the left hand. Sometimes it is 
better to put a lashing round the strands to keep them 
down to the rope on which they lie. The long ends 
are tucked in twice and the short ends once. Pass the 
left hand over the first strand next to it and underneath 
the second strand. Haul it taut in the lay of the rope. 
Then enter the right hand strand and lastly the middle 
strand in a similar manner to the first or left hand 
strand. Haul them taut along the lay of the rope. 
Put the long ends in again as before, cut the stop off 
the fork and put the short ends in once in a similar 
way. Stretch the splice, whip the ends and cut them 
off. If it is intended to serve over the splice, put the 
strands in once and a half each way, take a few of 
the underneath yarns from each strand to fill up the 



ii4 

lay of the rope for worming, scrape the ends and marl 
them down ready for serving. 

The Long Splice has many advantages over the 
short one. To make it unlay the ends of two ropes to 
the length of five and a half times the circumference 
of the rope. Crutch them together as for the short 
splice. Unlay one strand and fill up the vacant space 





LONG SPLICE 

which it leaves with the opposite strand next to it. 
Then turn the rope round and lay hold of the two 
next strands that will come opposite their respective 
lays. Unlay one filling up the vacant space, as before, 
with the other. Take one-third out of each strand, 
knot the opposite strands together and heave them 
well in place. Stick all six ends once under one strand. 
Having stretched the splice well cut off the ends. 



H5 



An Eye Splice is used by seafarers to splice round 
a block, deadeye or thimble and is formed by unlaying 
the end of a rope for a short distance and then laying 
three strands upon the standing part so as to form an 
eye. Put one end in the strand next to it in the same 
manner as for the short splice. Then put the next 
end over that strand and through the second and put 
the remaining end through the third strand on the 






EYE SPLICE 

other side of the rope. Taper them, divide the strands 
and put them in again. To finish off split the strands 
and take half of each, seizing them together, and cut 
the ends off. When serving is used the strands should 
be tapered off. 

A Chain Splice is used for splicing hemp tails into 
chain when required to travel through a block or fair- 
lead, such as earrings and outhauls for forecastle and 



n6 



quarterdeck awnings. To make a chain splice unlay 
strands rather more than for an eye splice, then unlay 
the strand, A, for a few inches. Reeve the two re- 
maining strands, B and C, through the link in the end 
of the chain ; continue unlaying the strand, A, and lav 






CHAIN SPLICE 

up strand, B, in its place for about a foot, then half 
knot it and tuck as for a long splice. Then tuck the 
•strand C as for an eye splice. 

A Cut Splice is made by laying two ropes in the 
position indicated in the upper diagram. Leaving the 



ii7 

ropes between A, A, to form an oblong loop, tuck the 
strands of one rope into the other as done in the eye 
splice. Splices are often wormed, parcelled and served. 
It is rather difficult to force apart the twisted 
strands of ropes. For this purpose a marlinespike is 
used for large ropes. This is made of iron, copper or 



^SS 




CUT SPLICE 



hard wood. Copper is preferable as it does not rust 
like iron or break like wood. A steel pricker is used 
for small stuff. For very large ropes a fid, which is 
a tapered wooden pin usually made of lignum vitae, is 
used. 




MARLINESPIKE 



PRICKER (ABOVE) 



A Grommet is a ring of rope. To make it cut a 
strand about three and one-half times the length of 
the grommet required. Unlay the rope carefully and 
keep the turns of the strand in. Close up the strand 
in the form of a ring as shown in the first diagram 
and then pass the ends round and round in their 
original lay until all the intervals are filled up as 
shown in the second diagram. Then finish ofif the two 
ends as in a long splice. 




GROMMET 



ii9 

An Artificial Eye is made somewhat like a long 
splice. Take the end of a rope and unlay one strand; 
lay the two strands back to the standing part of the 
rope; pass the strand which has been unlaid over the 
end and in the intervals round the eye, until it returns 
down the standing part and lies under the eye with 
strands. Then divide the strands, taper them down 
and serve them over with spunyarn. 




ARTIFICIAL EYE 



FLEMISH EYE 



The Flemish Eye is a little more difficult to make. 
The rope is first whipped and the strands unlaid to the 
whipping and opened out, separating each rope yarn. 
Take a piece of wood the size of the intended eye, A, 
between and along it lay three or more stops, hitch 
over the yarns and tie with the overhand knot crossing 



120 

them somewhat ; seize the ends and worm them be- 
tween the strands at the shoulder. Then marl all 
down, parcel and serve the ends. 

Throat Seizing is made by opening the end slightly 




THROAT SEIZING 

and lashing it to the standing part. The ring shown 
in the diagram is one of a variety occasionally used. 
It is useful to pass other ropes through in the rigging. 
Another ring is formed by lashing the two ends of a 




SELVAGEE 

short piece of rope to the side of a long one, looping 
the short piece to give the requisite ring. 

A Selvagee is used to form a neat stropping for 
blocks or to go round a spar to which a hook is to be 



121 

fastened. To make a selvagee strop drive a couple 
of bolts or large nails into a piece of plank, or any 
convenient place, or else seize a couple of hooks which 
will answer the same purpose. Put the nails or hooks 
at the required distance apart, according to the length 
of strop needed. Take the end of a ball of rope-yarn 




SELVAGEE FASTENING BLOCK TO ROPE 

and make it fast to one of the spikes or hooks. Pass 
it round the other spike and keep passing roundabout 
turns, taking care to have every turn well taut until 
the strop is the required thickness. If it is to be a 
very large strop marl it down with spunyarn ; if a 
small strop use two-rope yarn. 



122 

To Lengthen a Rope of a Sail with a Single Strand. 
— To do this is necessary when a sail is increased by 
the addition of, say, one cloth. Then the foot rope 
must be lengthened. Suppose the width of the cloth 
is 2 feet and the size of the rope 3 inches. After rip- 
ping the rope off four cloths, first cut the strand at the 
distance 2 feet 6 inches from each other, as shown in 
the diagram below. 

jst a h c 



a 





Cut one strand at A and unlay it to C, then cut one 
of the remaining strands C and unlay it to B, laying 
the strand A up again as far as B. Then cut the re- 
maining strand at B, w r hich will be the center, and the 
rope will be in two parts, as seen in the diagram above. 

Now marry the long end A to the end B, then lay 
up the long strand A and marry it to the other strand 
B, as in the diagram on page 123. 



123 




a* 



>SSS£^ 



O/b bC 



Take a strand about 10 feet in length of the same 
size rope and marry one end to the short strand A, 
as shown in the diagram. Fill up the space left from 
A to C by laying in the new strand and marry the 




BENDING SHEET TO CLEW OF SAIL 

other end to the short strand C. There will then be 
four splices to finish off as ordinary long splices. 

A rope is wormed, parcelled or served to preserve 
it from wet or chafe. 



124 

Worming is done to fill up the space between the 
strands of the rope with spunyarn or small rope, to 
render the surface smooth and round for parcelling 
and serving. 

Parcelling a rope is laying round it with the lay 
of the rope strips of clad canvas, tarred, from 2 to 3 
inches wide according to the size of the rope, before 
serving it, the upper turn of the parcelling overlapping 
the upper edge of the turn below it. 




Mallet 



pp mSPIw 



WORMING 



PARCELLING 



SERVING 



Serving is covering the rope with coils of spunyarn 
or other small stuff laid on quite close. The spunyarn 
is put, or, hove on by a serving mallet which has a 
score in the underpart according to the size of the 
rope. Service is always laid on against the lay of the 
rope. The sailor's adage says : 

Worm and parcel with the lay. 

And serve the rope the other way. 



125 

The end of the yarn is first secured by placing it 
under the first two or three coils. The serving mallet 
after being placed against the rope has two or three 
turns passed round its body and another turn or two 
on the handle. This enables the coils to be pulled taut 
as the mallet is worked round the rope by its handle. 
An extra man is needed for passing the ball of serving 
stuff. When the required length of service is put on 
the end is put under the last two turns, hauled taut 
and cut off. 

To make a cringle unlay a single strand from the 
rope the size the cringle is required to be. Whip both 
ends, reeve the strand through the left-hand eyelet- 
hole in the sail, keeping one end nearly a third longer 
than the other, keeping the roping of the sail toward 
you. If a thimble is to be put in the cringle lay up the 
two parts of the strand together, counting three lays. 
Commence with the short end of the strands toward 
you, through the right-hand eyelet-hole, taking it 
through the cringle and it will be in right position 
to lay up in the vacant space left in the cringle. When 
done the one end will hand down inside the right-hand 
eyelet-hole and the other end outside the left-hand 
one. The ends are then hitched by being wove 
through their respective eyelet-holes and passed over 
the leech rope and under their own part, one hitch 



126 

being towards you and the other from you. Then take 
the ends down under one strand on the right and two 
on the left of the cringle nearest to it. Tuck the ends 
under the first two strands nearest the hitch leaving 
them well in place. The cringle is then fidded out and 
the thimble is put in on the foreward of the sail. The 




A CRINGLE 



ends of the strands are then tucked back left-handed, 
under one strand, again under two right-handed as in 
the first place. Heave them taut in place at each tuck, 
whip the ends with two of their own yarns and cut 
off. If a large cringle is needed count an extra num- 
ber of lays, 5, 7, 9, etc., always an odd number. 



127 

To finish a cringle off on a crown commence as al- 
ready told. After laying up the strand together in- 
stead of forming a hitch with each end, the ends are 
rove through their respective eyelet-holes and tucked 
back under two strands of the cringle and again laid 




CRINGLE ON A CROWN 



up as far as the crown forming a four-stranded cringle. 
It is finished off by tucking the ends under two strands 
and crossing them under the crown of the cringle and 
cut off close. 



WIRE SPLICING 

In splicing wire rope great care must be taken to 
prevent kinks getting into the rope or strands/ Once 
a kink is made no amount of strain can take it out, 
and the rope is unsafe to work. If possible a turn- 
table should be employed (an old cart wheel mounted 
on a spindle makes an excellent one) — the rope will 
then lead off perfectly straight without kinks. 

With steel wire rope, always before working it 
put a stop on at the place to which you intend to un- 
lay, and put a good whipping of twine at the end of 
each strand. In splicing wire all tucks are made 
against the lay of the rope. 

In making an eye splice the rope is handled better 
if hung up in a convenient position, so that when stand- 
ing up the eye will be at about the level of the chest 
of the person working. 

A long, tapering steel marlinespike is required and 
after placing it under a strand do not withdraw it 
until the tuck is made and all the slack of the strand 
drawn through. 

To make a neat splice do not haul the part of the 
rope that has not been unlaid too close to the neck of 



129 

the splice, and in tucking the strands never take a short 
nip, but take long lays. 

In unlaying for a long splice always unlay two 
strands simultaneously to keep the rope in its original 
lay. For a fair-sized rope unlay about 9 feet of each 
end. 

Proceed as in rope splicing and after the three pairs 
of strands are in their places, single them and continue 
to unlay and lay-in until the six meeting places of the 
strands are equidistant. 

To finish off the ends properly can only be learned 
by observation and actual practice. By using two 
marlinespikes the hempen heart is removed and the 
ends of the wire strands forced into the place it oc- 
cupied, making a very neat job when finished. 

Wire splices should be parcelled with oily canvas 
and served. 

Short Splice. — The same procedure is gone through 
as for splicing hemp rope, only care must be taken to place 
a good whipping on where the ends marry, and that 
each strand prior to unlaying is whipped. The num- 
ber of tucks taken should never be less than three 
whole and one-half and one-third, so as to taper the 
splice off. The number of tucks to be taken off varies 
according to the work required of the rope or strop, 

but as a rule the more the better. 
9 



130 

In tucking wire strands the strand should be en- 
tered in front of the marlinespike, which should not be 
withdrawn until this has been done, care being taken 
not to kink the strand. 

Eye Splice. — Make the crown of the eye, take half 
the girth of the thimble and rope to be used and put a 
good stout whipping on to the wire, break the wire into 
shape of the thimble and heave both parts of the wire 
together by means of the rigging screws supplied for 
this purpose. Put a good seizing of spun yarn around 
both sides of the wire and thimble at the ends of the 
latter. Then remove the rigging screws and unlay the 
end of the wire as far as the whipping, open each 
strand and remove the hemp heart by cutting it off. 
Then put a whipping on the ends of the six strands, 
commence the splice by tucking the right-hand strand 
first, then the others in succession, each strand under 
one. The left-hand strand being the last is tucked 
under two. This ensures that each strand takes a fair 
strain. Care should be taken to keep the strands 
straight. When all have been tucked once, beat well 
down with an iron hammer and put on a good seizing 
of spun yarn. Then tuck each strand a second time. 
Wire 2.y 2 inches and over should be tucked three times 
full and tapered to a third. 

Steel Wire Hawsers. — The splices of the wire are 



i3i 

made against the lay of the rope tucked three times 
with the full size of the strand and a fourth time with 
the strand reduced one-half; to make a more suitable 
taper, each tuck is drawn tightly in the direction of the 
lay of the rope. The center core of tie rope is removed 
on opening out the strands for splicing, and the cores 
of the strands removed after the first tuck has been 
made. The first tuck is taken at one and a half times 
the girth of the thimble plus the circumference of the 
rope. The splice is then parcelled and served, the 
thimble tightly seized in with flat seizing crossed. 

Splicing Wire Rope into an Endless Band. — This 
can be done either by the long or short splice, but the 
former is recommended, as the short splice, though 
•equally strong, leaves a thick place in the rope. In 
the long splice, if properly made, no such inequality 
exists; indeed the spliced part should be difficult to 
locate. 

To make a long splice a rope say 3^-inch circum- 
ference should have a splice not less than 60 feet to be 
safe, and smaller sizes in proportion down to i^-inch 
circumference, for which size 25 feet will do. Take 
the 3j^-inch rope as an example. 

Measure 30 feet off each end of the rope and put a 
sound marline serving at those points. Then cut off 



132 

the end servings and tie the strands together in twos and 
interlock, as shown in the diagram. 

Lashings should only be cut off when parts are quite 
close together, otherwise rope has a tendency to open 





SPLICING INTO AN ENDLESS BAND 



out further back and thus throw the length wrong. 
Then open strands out singly and snip off short six of 
the ends, three on either side, alternately. That is to 
say, leave a long end in each case opposite one of the 



133 

snipped ends. Take each of the short ends in turn and 
carefully unlay them, at the same time laying in its 
place the corresponding long end. 

This should be done with all the strands, and 
reckoning from the center on each side, the first one 
should be taken away* 25 feet, the second 15 feet, and 
the third 5 feet. This will divide the splice up equally 
as shown in the lower diagram. 

Then commence at the first strand at either end. 
First put the marlinespike through the center of the 
rope where the ends cross, cut and remove the hemp 
heart for about a foot. Then by the aid of the two 
spikes force the strand into place of heart just removed 
and follow up to the end of the strand, pulling out the 
heart a few inches at a time. 

Repeat with all twelve ends, taking care that no 
empty space is left in the center of the rope by cutting 
of the hemp core further away than the strand end 
will reach. It is a good plan to marl or wrap each 
end with parcelling before it is put into the center of 
the rope, as this tends to give parts of the splice a good 
grip of one another. To finish off and remove inequali- 
ties, lay the splice on deck and hammer with a heavy 
wooden mallet. 



MATTING 

A Paunch Mat is used as a protection from chafe 
on shipboard. Stretch a piece of rope according to the 
size of the mat required in a horizontal position and 
fasten each end. Across this hanging by their middles, 
foxes are placed. Foxes are two or more rope yarns 
twisted together by hand and each rubbed down with 
tarred canvas or a handful of rope-yarn. Beginning 
with the fox nearest the left hand twist a turn in the 
two parts and give one part to the man opposite. The 
next fox has a turn twisted in its two parts and one 
part is given to the opposite man. The other part is 
twisted round the first which is given to the partner 
and then again round its own part with the other foxes 
until the required breadth is reached. Then as no 
more foxes are added and the outside on the right is 
brought over from time to time, a selvage is formed as 
on the left side. There is a little difficulty in starting 
but afterwards all will go along very easily. Each 
fox from the right passes over the next one to it on 
the left and is pushed back. The one that has been 
passed over being taken up first over the next and 
pushed back as before. Each twist should be pressed 
tight as it is made. When the mat is deep enough a 



135 




A PAUNCH MAT 



136 



selvage is made by straining another piece of cord 
along the bottom securing both ends. As each fox 
comes down it is half hitched to this and the next fox 
is laid at the back of it and so on alternately. 

Sword Matting is used for boats, gripes, etc. Two 
iron bars are slung in a horizontal position at the re- 




SWORD MATTING WARP AND LOOM 



quired distance apart for warping the mat off. Hitch 
one end of the warp which is of spunyarn to the bar 
at the end of which it is intended to finish the mat. 
The other end is then rove through the first hole in 
the loom over and under the other bar back through 
the first slit, over and under the other bar and so on 



137 

until as many parts as are required for the breadth 
needed have been laid out. The last end is rove 
through a slit and secured to the bar at the end the 




SWORD MATTING 



mat is to be finished. When this is done lift the loom 
up, middle the fittings and lay it between the upper 
and lower parts. Then lower the loom and the parts 



138 

that were lowest will rise in the slits and become the 
uppermost and thus put a cross in the warp. 

A piece of wood made in the shape of a knife, called 
a sword, is then inserted betw r een the alternate parts 
of the warp and the crossing is driven close to the head 
against the bar over which the warp for weaving the 
mat is passed. Then turn of filling is passed to secure 
the crossing, reeving the ends through contraryways. 
Haul it taut, take out the sword, lift up the loom and 
continue to pass the filling. Half knot it with two 
turns. To finish off splice the mat. The loom is 





SPLICING A SWORD MAT 



139 

usually made of a piece of copper sheet with alternate 
holes and slits in it. 

To Splice a Sword Mat unlay 6 or 7 inches of the 
mat, open the ends out, marry them together laying 
one up and one down flat along the mat. Withdraw 
the nettles on one side of one mat and point the nettles 
of the other mat through the holes they will come out 
of. All ends will then disappear from that side and 
there will be four rows of ends on the other. Turn 
the mats over, pick out the proper nettles of the side 
which have been married together, withdraw the ends 
belonging to one mat and introduce the correspond- 
ing ends of the other mat through the holes. Perform 
this operation on each mat and on each side there will 
be tw r o rows of ends. Marry these ends together on 
each side laying one up and one down and go on 
splicing by withdrawing and reeving for two or three 
rows, more in each mat. Leave off with the ends all 
out on the same side and finish off as with selvaging. 

A cobbler's stitch is used for joining the sides of 
sword mats together. Take a filling of roping twine, 
middle it and reeve each end through two bights in 
each mat (if a heavy mat through three bights at 
each side). Then reeve the lowermost end back 
through the same bights as the upper end which will 
bring the ends out at opposite sides. Draw the mats 



140 

together and reeve both ends through two turns in 
each mat again, passing each other through the same 
hole opposite ways. Keep on doing this like stitching 
the sole of a shoe, hence the reason for calling it a 
cobbler's stitch. Finish off each end by taking a hitch 
through a bight in the mat of the next lay above and 
cut off the ends. 

A Thrum Mat is made of canvas and short yarns 




A THRUM MAT 

of equal length. These yarns are rove through holes 
stabbed in the canvas, both ends of the yarns being on 
the same side. 

A Common Sennit is made by taking three or four 
nettles according to the need required. Middle them 
over a belaying pin and plait three or four together the 
length it is intended to make the eye. Then work both 
parts together to form an eye and plait them by bring- 



141 

ing the outside nettles on each side alternately over 
to the middle. The outside one is laid with the right 
hand and the remainder held firmly with the left hand. 
Work the whole together adding a nettle when neces- 
sary. After the eye is properly formed drop a yarn 
and continue to the end with an odd number. When 
it is of sufficient length lessen it by dropping a nettle at 
regular intervals. To finish it lay one end up, leaving 
its bight down and plait the other ends through this 
bight until they are all worked through it. Then 
haul on the end till the bight is taut. To secure all 
parts cut off the ends and whip it. 

A Square Sennit is made somewhat in the same 
manner as the round sennit but without a heart. Net- 
tles are used in the same ratio increasing by fours. 




SQUARE SENNIT 



ROUND FENDER 



142 

Having put a whipping round the (eight) ends divide 
the nettles, and lay half on each side. Bring the upper- 
most left-handed nettle round underneath all and up 
inside two and over two of the right-handed ones. 
Cross over the latter ones to the left and make four 
on each side again. Then take the uppermost to the 
right-handed nettles, pass it underneath and under two 




A FENDER 

and over two of the left-handed ones, still keeping 
four on a side, because the nettle taken up always 
comes round to its own side again. To proceed take 
the upper nettle on each side alternately and finish, 
off as the round sennit is finished. 

A Fender is used to protect the sides of a boat. 



143 

Sometimes it is made of wood but more often is of 
canvas stuffed with oakum and painted. 

To make a soft fender take a piece of Manilla rope 
double the length of the fender. Unlay it, open the 
strands and comb them until all the yarns lie straight. 
Double it and clap an eye-seizing on it, marling it 
down as shown in the diagram. A lanyard of small 
cords, such as log line, is then spliced into the eye. 

A Round or Pudding Fender is made of a center or 
heart of rope yarn worked over a grafted with short 
pieces of rope yarn nettles. The nettles are first cut 
to the proper length and the middle part slightly 
twisted. They are then brought snugly round a thim- 
ble and a seizing put on. The heart or pudding may 
be of any old stuff such as old strands, spunyarn, etc. 
This is put into its place and the nettles laid evenly 
over it. Half the nettles taken alternately are turned 
back over the eye and the other left lying down the 
heart. Pass a turn or two of twine or marline called 
the warp or filling round the fender where the nettles 
separate and hitch it. The nettles turned back must 
now be brought down and those that are down turned 
over the eye. The warp is now passed again and 
hitched as before. This must be repeated until the 
whole of the fender is covered with a woven coat as 
shown in the diagram. The ends of the nettles are 



144 

brought round last turn of the warp and interlaced in 
the grafting. 

A simple weaving apparatus is shown in the dia- 
gram by which mats may easily be made. Take two 
pegs about 15 to 18 inches long, and drive them into 
the ground or attach them to a board so as to be firm. 




SIMPLE WEAVING 

These should stand about a foot out of the ground. 
Then take a stick or a piece of wood and lash it across 
the upright stakes. Next drive a row of pegs into the 
ground. These pegs should be at equal distances 
apart, not to exceed 6 inches, and parallel with the 
lashed stick. Two sets of strings are then tied to the 
cross stick. The ends of one set are fastened to the 
sticks and the ends of the other set to a staff held in 



145 

the hands, as shown in the diagram. If there are a 
dozen strings, then the odd numbered should be 
fastened to the sticks and the even numbered to the 
staff. By alternately raising and depressing the staff, 
placing a handful of straw or rushes between the 
strings at each movement and making them lie close, 
a good mat is made. These mats may be joined to- 




MALAY HITCH 

gether with the cobbler's stitch or by tying the string 
ends together. 

The Malay Hitch is a name given by Captain Gal- 
ton, a noted traveler, to a method for fastening boards 
or planks together to make a shelter. The cord is 
twisted once and then as each board is inserted this 
twist holds them sufficiently tight for temporary 
purposes. 
10 



HAMMOCK MAKING 

At the mention of a hammock one's mind naturally 
reverts to the sailor and at the same time thinks of 
the pleasure a good hammock will afford under some 
shady tree or on a sheltered piazza. Hammock mak- 
ing is quite easy and the tools necessary are simple. 
First, a netting needle is required. There are two 
styles of these needles, which are shown in the dia- 
gram. In the top one the cord is brought round the 
end at A, up one side, round the pin at B and back 
the same side, the process being repeated on the other 
side of the needle. This needle is made of hardwood 
such as boxwood, and is 8 inches long by 24 * nc h wide. 

The needle shown in the middle diagram has the 
cord wound round it as in an ordinary shuttle. 




NETTING NEEDLES AND MESH STICK 



147 

The mesh stick, the lower illustration, which also 
shows a cross section, is made of hardwood or bone 
and is about 5 inches long and oval in shape. 

At one end of the string to be used for the net, 
tie a loop and place the knot on a nail fixed in some 
convenient position. Place the mesh stick under the 
loop as shown by A in the diagram, put the cord 





LOOP IN MESHING 



FIRST STAGE OF MESHING 



under it, then pass the needle through the loop and pull 
the cord taut. 

Now place the thumb of the left hand on the cord 
beyond the loop, as shown in the next diagram, and 
with a turn of the wrist of the right hand throw the 
cord to the position shown at B, then pass the needle 
under the loop C, through the bight B and down as 
at D and draw the knot tight. 



148 

When this has been done the loop will assume the 
shape seen in the diagram illustrating the third mesh- 
ing stage. The cord must be held firmly with the 
thumb at A when pulling up the knots, as the uni- 
formity of the meshes depends on this. 




SECOND STAGE IN MESHING 



To continue the netting the stick is withdrawn and 
placed under A, in the third meshing diagram. The 
needle is then passed under the stick as before, brought 
through the loop B and as before to form another 
mesh. This is continued to make a chain of meshes, 



149 

say forty-five or fifty, sufficient for the width of the 
hammock. The loop A originally tied is then unfast- 
ened and it will be found that the meshes are all of 
the same size. 

The chain is then opened out at right angles to 
the line in which it was made, shown in the next dia- 




THIRD MESHING STAGE CHAIN OF MESHES 

gram, and working across is begun by making a mesh 
at A, then at B, C, and so on, until the length of the 
first lot of meshes has been reached, when the net is 
turned over and another row of meshes worked in the 
same manner. 



i5o 

To insure uniformity it will be well to put the loops, 
D, E, F and G, separately on the hook or nail as the 
meshes under them are made. After a little practice a 
cord may be reeved through the top line of meshes, 
tied into a loop and passed over the knee and then 
over the foot as the work progresses. 




BEGINNING OF CROSS NETTING 



HAMMOCK CLEW 



An ash stick may be used at each end to which the 
end meshes are looped and tied, and a piece of codline 
may be passed through the side meshes on each side 
and attached to the ends of the sticks. At each end 
a stout cord is secured to the stick in the form of a 



i5i 

triangle for hanging the hammock. Another plan is 
to tie a number of cords together by doubling them 
in the center and forming a loop, and each of the free 
ends is attached to one of the meshes of the net. The 
best plan is to reeve a cord about the size of a little 
finger through the end meshes and splice it into the 
form of a grommet. A thimble, A, is fixed in the end 
to which the supporting cords are attached and the 
cords which are reeved through the side meshes are 
spliced into the eye B at C. When these clews are 
used the net must be made longer than for sticks. 



STRENGTH OF ROPE, ETC. 

Rope is measured by its circumference. A four- 
stranded rope is about one-fifth weaker than a three- 
stranded one. 

Generally blocks should be three times the size of the 
rope which it is intended to reeve in them. 

The hauling part bears twice the strain of the stand- 
ing part hi a fall, the pin of a block is often more worn 
on one of its sides than on the other and should be turned 
frequently. 

Sheaves and pins of blocks should be carefully ex- 
amined at short intervals. 

BREAKING STRAINS, ETC. 

Hawser-Laid Rope 
Rule 

Square the circumference and divide by 3 for the 
breaking strain; in tons. Divide by 4 for the proof 
strain ; divide by 6 for the working strain. 

Worked Example 

A rope 4 inches in circumference ; required the break- 
ing strain. 



153 

4 inches in circumference. 
X _4 

Ans. 5.3 tons=breaking strain. 

4 inches in circumference. 
X _4 

.4ns. 4 tons=proof strain. 

4 inches in circumference. 

X 4 

-5- 6) 16 
/4wj. 2.7 tons=working strain. 



To find what weight a rope will lift when rove as a 
tackle. 

Multiply the weight the rope is capable of suspending 
by the number of parts at the movable block and subtract 
Y\ of this for resistance. 

To determine the relative strength of chain and rope. 

Consider the proportional strength to be 10 to 1, 
using the diameter of the chain and the circumference 
of the rope; J^-inch chain may replace 5-inch rope. 

Table showing the sized wire rope which may be used 
as a substitute for hempen rope. 



154 



temp Rope 


Wire Rope 


Inches 


Inches 


3 


1/2 


4 


iH 


5 


2 


6 


2/2 


7 


3 


8 


3/ . 


9 


4 


IO 


4/ 


ii 


5 



STEEL WIRE ROPES 

i. The four qualities of steel wire used for wire 
making are: 

Breaking Strain p.s.i. — Extra plough steel, no to 
120 tons. Mild plough steel, 95 to 100 tons. Best 
patent steel, 80 to 85 tons. Bessemer steel, 40 to 45 
tons. 

2. Specifications. — Specification should state: (1) 
Length of rope. (2) Size of gear. (3) Speed. (4) 
Load, exclusive of rope. (5) If for wet workings. (6) 
Gradients. (7) Particulars of curves. 

3. Working Load. — The maximum working load at 
average speed, including weight of rope, should not ex- 
ceed a tenth of the breaking- strain as tabulated on page 1 56. 



155 

4. Sheaves and Barrels. — Great care should be taken 
that wire ropes are not worked round drums or over 
pulleys of insufficient .circumference, that they do not 
strike against any hard substance while in motion. They 
should be about 30 times the circumference of the rope 
in diameter. 

5. Uncoiling. — Much care should be taken in un- 
coiling wire ropes, to prevent kinking. The coil should 
not be laid stationary, but should be placed on a turntable 
or reel and unwound from the outer end. 

6. Grease. — To prevent corrosion, all working ropes 
should receive a regular dressing of wire rope grease 
thoroughly laid on. 

7. Starting. — The greatest strain on a rope being at 
the moment of starting, every care should be taken to 
insure perfect steadiness of movement, as jerking is 
ruinous to ropes. 



156 



Weights and Breaking Strengths of Round 
Wire Ropes. 



Diameter 
Incnes. 


Circum- 
ference 
Inches. 


Lbs. per 
Fathom. 


Extra 
Plough 
Steel. 


Mild 
Plough 
Steel. 


Best 
Patent 
Steel. 


Best 

Bessemer 

Steel. 








Tons. 


Tons. 


Tons. 


Tons. 


h 


i* 


H 


8* 


H 


H 


H 




if 


3 


HI 


10 


8i 


H 


i 


2 


H 


15i 


13 


11" 


H 




H 


5 


19* 


16J 


14 


7 


f 


n 


H 


20 


17i 


15| 


8 




H 


H 


23| 


20J 


17* 


8f 


i 


n 


n 


28-| 


24| 


21 


10| 




3 


8| 


34i 


29f 


25 


12| 


i 


3i 


H 


36J 


32 


27 


13| 




H 


»i 


40 


34 


29 


14f 




H 


12J 


46i 


39£ 


34 


17 




3f 


14 


53j 


45f 


39 


19| 


it 


4 


16 


61 


54 


44J 


22£ 




H 


J8 


69 


62 


50 


25 




H 


20 


77 


70 


56 


28 


H 


4f 


22| 


86 


76| 


63 


31 




5 


25 


95 


85J 


70 


34£ 




H 


27 


105 


96 


77 


3S£ 


if 


H 


30 


115 


106 


84 


42 




H 


33 


126 


114 


92 


46 




6 


36 


138 


125 


100 


50 


2 
... 


H 


39 


155 


133 


120 


60 



INDEX 



Artificial Eye 119 

Back-Handed Sailor's Knot 

97, 98 

Bale Slings 84, 85 

Belaying Pin Splice 102 

Bend Hawsers 100 

Bend Shortening 71 

Bending Sheet to Clew of 

Sail 123 

Blackwall Hitch 44. 

Boat Knot, Simple 95 

Boat Knot with Thole Pin 96 

Boltrope 14 

Bow Knot, Double 74, 75 

Bow Knot, Single 74, 75 

Bow Shortening 71, 72 

Bowline Bend 47,48 

1/ Bowline Knot 25, 26 

Bowline Knot, Standing . . 28 

Bowline on a Bight 27 

Bronze Rope 18 

Builders* Knot 73 

Builders' Knot, Double . . 74 

Buntline Hitch 38 

Burton, Spanish, Double 82, 83 
Burton, Spanish, Single. 81, 82 
Butt Slings 84 

Cable Laid Rope 13 

Can Hooks 84, 85 

Capstan Knot 96 

Carrick Bend 48 



Car rick Bend, Double . .48, 49 

Catspaw 72 

Chain Fastening 90 

Chain Fastening to Sheaves, 

Double 91 

Chain Hitch 49 

Chain Knot 68 

Chain Knot, Double ... .69, 70 

Chain Splice ir5, 116 

Clinch, Outside 28 

Clinch, Running or Inside 28 

Clinch, Simple 28 

/Clove Hitch 39, 73 

Coir Rope 14, 18 

Crabber's Eye Knot . . 37, 38 

Cringle on a Crown 127 

Cringles 125, 126 

Crossed and Square Fasten- 
ing 92 

Crossed Running Knot . .30, 96 

Cross Lashing 103 

Cross Netting 150 

Crowning 56 

Crown Knot , 57 

Cut Splice 116 

Deadeye Lashing .... ioi, 102 
Diamond Knot, Double.. 63, 64 
Diamond Knot, Single ..62, 63 

Dog Shank 70, 71 

Double Blackwall Hitch 41, 42 
Double Builders' Knot .... 74 
Double Knot 22 



158 



Double Wall Knot 56 

Durable Rope 18 

Englishman's Knot 33 

Eye Splice, Rope 115 

Eye Splice, Wire Rope . . 130 

False Knot 31, 32 

Fender, Round or Pudding 141 

Fender, Soft 142 

Fibres 12 

Figure of 8 Knot 21 

Fisherman's Bend 46, 47 

Fisherman's Knot 33 

Five-Fold Knot 22 

Flemish Eye 119 

Flemish Knot 76, 77 

Galvanized Iron Wire .... 18 

Granny 31, 32 

Grommet 118 

Gunner's Knot 99 

Half Hitch 36 

Half Hitch and Seizing Bend 

47, 48 

Hammock Clew 150 

Hammock Lashings 14 

Hawser Bend, Simple .... 47 

Hawser Rope 13 

Hawsers 18 

Hemp Rope 18 

Junk 14 

Jury Knot 108 

Killick Flitch 42, 43 

Knot Shortening 71, 72 

Lanyards 14 

Lark Boat Knot 94, 95 

Lark's Head 88, 89, 96 

Lark's Head, Double ... .97, 98 



Lark's Head, Stoppered . . 96 
Lark's Head, Treble ...97, 98 
Lark's Head with Crossed 

Ends 97 

Lark's Nest 57 

Lengthening the Rope of a 

Sail 122 

Long Splice, Rope 114 

Long Splice, Wire 131 

Loop Fastening to Sheaves 

9i, 92 

Loop Knot 23, 24 

Loop Knot for Large Cord- 
age 24 

Loop or Bend Shortening, 

Simple 7 1 

Lubber's Knot 32 

Magnus Hitch 43 

Malay Hitch 145 

Manila Rope 18 

Marling Hitch 42 

Marlinespike 118 

Marlinespike Hitch 43, 44 

Manrope Knot 57, 58 

Matthew Walker Knot .59, 60 
Matthew Walker, Double 60, 61 

Meshing Loop 147 

Metallic Rope 18 

Midshipman's Hitch 42 

Mousing a Hook 100 

Necklace Tie 103 

Nettle Stuff 14 

Netting Needles 146 

Nippering or Packing .... 104 

Oakum 14 

Open Hand Knot 32 

Ordinary Knot or Tie .... 34 



159 



Overhand Loop 21 

Packing Knot . . . 106, 107 

Parbuckle 84 

Parcelling 124 

Pass a Life Line, To 85 

Pass a Stropper, To 86 

Paunch Mat 134 

Pitcher Knot, Single 23 

Pitcher Knot, Double.. 108, 109 
Point a Rope End, To . .52, 53 
Portuguese Knot or Neck- 
Lace Tie 103 

Pricker 118 

Purchases — 

Burton 81 

Double Luff Tackle . .80, 81 

Four-fold 81 

Gun Tackle 79, 80 

Handy Billy 80 

Luff Tackle 80, 81 

Runner 79, 80 

Runner and Tackle 82 

Three-fold 80 

Up and Down Tackle . . 81 

Watch Tackle 80 

Whip, Double 79 

Whip, Single 79 

Put a Strop on a Spar . . 87 

Racking Seizing ..109, no, III 

Reef Knot 31, 73 

Roband Hitch 39 

Rolling Hitch 40, 41 

Rope n 

Ropeyarn Knot 35 

Rose Lashing 103 

Round Fender 143 

Round Turn and Two Half 
Hitches 43, 44 



Running Bowline 26 

Running Knot 75, 76, 77 

Running Knot Checked . .75, 76 
Running Knot Crossed . .30, 96 
Running Knot in Eye of a 

Rope 101 

Running Knot, Simple .... 96 
Running Knot with Check 

Knot 24 

Running Noose 29, 30 

Sailors' Knot Fastening . . 94 
Secure Lead Line to Lead 100 
Secure a Rope Round a Be- 
laying Pin 93 

Secure a Rope Around a 

Cleat 93 

Selvagees 120, 121 

Sennit 14 

Sennit, Crown 140 

Sennit, Square 141 

Serving . .• 124 

Shell Lashing 103 

Sheep Shank or Dog Shank 

70, 7i 

Sheet Bend 46,47 

Shortening Tie 34 

Short Splice, Rope 112 

Short Splice, Wire 129 

Shroud Laid Rope 13 

Shroud Knot 64 

Simple Boat Knot 95 

Simple Hitch 21 

Simple Knot 21, 73, 74 

Simple Running Knot .... 23 
Simple Stoppered Loop . . 88 
Single Plait or Chain Knot 68 

Six-Fold Knot 23 

Sling a Cask on End 86 



i6o 



Slip Clinches or Running 

Knots Seized 29 

Slip Knot, Stoppered .... 98 
Slip Knot Secured by Slip 

Clinch 99 

Slippery Hitch 39, 40 

Slippery Ring Knot 94 

Snaking and Seizing 65 

Spanish Burton 81,82 

Spanish Burton, Double 82, 83 

Spanish Windlass 83 

Spritsail Sheet Knot .... 66 

Spun Yarn 14 

.Square Fastening 93 

Stationer's Knot 77, 78 

Steel Rope 18 

Stopper Knot 57, 58 

Strands 12 

Stun'sai.l Halyard Bend .44, 45 

Sword Mat Splicing . 138 

Sword Matting ...... 136, 137 

Tail Jigger 87 

Tent Pole Knot 75, 76 

Throat Seizing . 120 

Thrum Mat 140 

Timber Hitch 36, 37 

Timber Hitch for Towing 

Spars 37 

Toggles 107 

Tomfool Knot 23 

Topsail Halyard Bend ... 45 



Treble Knot 22 

Turk's Head Knot 58 

Twine 14 

Twist Knot, Single ....69, 74 

Twist Knot, Double 74, 75 

Twisted Rope Fastening . . 89 

Underhand Loop 21 

Useful Band 106 

Wall Knot 54, 55 

Waterman's Knot .. 89, 90 

Weaver's Knot or Tie . .32, 33 
Wedding Knot or Rose 

Lashing 102, 103 

Weaving, Simple 144 

Whip a Rope, To 50, 51 

Whipping, American 103 

Whipping, To Finish .... 105 
Whipping, Palm and Needle 

5i, 52 

Whipping, West Country . 104 

Wire Hawsers, Steel 130 

Wire Rope 18 

Wire Rope Eye Splice 130 

Wire Rope into Endless 

Band, To Splice 131 

Wire Rope Long Splice . . 131 

Wire Rope Splicing 128 

Wire Splice, Short 129 

Worming 124 

Yarn 12 



NAUTICAL LIBRARY 

of TECHNICAL and 
PRACTICAL BOOKS 

HPECHNICAL books are tools. No man can 
excel in a trade unless he has good tools, 
neither can a man expect to excel in ship- 
building- or navigation unless he has at hand 
ready for reference a good collection of books 
relating to its theory and practice. We have 
in this list, gathered for the first time, all the 
obtainable books on the subject. Any book 
not here listed, if in print, we will obtain, no 
matter in what language or land it is printed. 



PRICES SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE 



HOW TO REMIT: The cheapest way is to send post-office or express money 
order, payable to THE RUDDER PUBLISHING COMPANY. If bank 
check is more convenient, include to cents for bank exchange; if postage stamps 
or bills, letter must be REGISTERED, OTHERWISE at SENDER'S RISK. 



Send for complete catalog; of Books for a Nautical Library 



HE #*% A magazine devoted to Navigation, Sea- 

manship and Shipbuilding subjects. 



RUDDER 

$2.00 a year 

25c a single copy Covers for Binding 1.25 



<fcO C\C\ Bound Volumes: 1910, 1911, 1914, 

ct>^.UU a year 1915f 1916> 1917 $4#0 o 



The Rudder Pub. Co., 9 Murray St., N. Y., U. S. A. 

OPPOSITE CITY HALL PARK 



BOOKS FOR A NAUTICAL LIBRARY 

NAVIGATION 

Navigation Simplified. By McArthur $1.25 

Handy Jack Book of Navigation Tables paper .75 

Book of Sights Taken in Actual Practice at Sea 1.00 

Tables for Correcting the Observed Altitude, etc. By S. Anfindsen 1.00 

Useful Tables. By Bowditch $1.25; by mail 1.50 

American Practical Navigator. By Bowditch $2.25; by mail 2.50 

Azimuths of the Sun $1.00; by mail 1.25 

American Nautical Almanac .30 

Navigation — A Short Course. By Hasting 75 

Navigation. By G. L. Hosmer 1.25 

Elements of Navigation. By Henderson 1.25 

Epitome of Navigation. By Norie 2 Vols. 15.00 

Navigation. By Jacoby 2.25 

Navigators' Pocket Book. By Capt. Howard Patterson 2.00 

Practical Aid to the Navigator. By Sturdy 2.00 

Wrinkles in Practical Navigation. By Lecky $12.00; by mail 12.50 

Brown' s Star Atlas 2.00 

Magnetism, Deviation of Compass, Compass Adjustment 1.2o 

Manual on Rules of the Road at Sea 3.25 

Nautical Charts. By G. S. Putnam, M. S 2.00 

Nautical Science. By C. L. Poor 2.00 

Pocket Course Book Chesapeake Bay 25 

Pocket Course Book Long Island Sound 25 

Pocket Course Book New England Waters 25 

Pocket Course Book Portland to Halifax .25 

Pocket Course Book Race Rock to Boston Light 25 

Questions and Answers on the Rules of the Road 25 

SEAMANSHIP 

Fore-and-Aft Seamanship 50 

Modern Seamanship. By Knight $3,00; by mail 3.25 

Tait's New Seamanship. 5th Editicn 2.00 

Notes on Stowage. By Hillcoat 3.75 

SIGNALLING 

International Signals — A Few Ways to Use the Cede 25 

Nautical Telegraph Code. By D. H. Bernard 1.25 

Navy and Merchant Marine Signal Chart 25 

Signalling — International Code Signals 1.00 

Signalling Made Easy. By Capt. Bernard 75 

Signal Reminder. By D. H. Bernard 50 

MARINE ENGINEERING 

Elements of Mechanism. By Schwamb 2.50 

Marine Engineering. By Lucas 3.00 

Marine. Propellers. By Barnaby 3.00 

Marine Steam Turbine. By J. W. Sothern. 3d Edition 6.00 

Mechanics' and Engineers' Pocketbook. By Charles H. Haswell. . 4.00 

Practical Marine Engineering. By Capt. C. W. Dyson, U. S. N 6.00 

The Rudder Pub. Co., 9 Murray St., N. Y., U. S. A. 



BOOKS FOR A NAUTICAL LIBRARY 

YACHT AND NAVAL ARCHITECTURE 

Naval Architecture Simplified. By Desmond $5.00 

A Text Book of Laying Off. By Attwood and Cocper 2.00 

Elements of Yacht Design. By N. L. Skene 2.00 

Handbook of Ship Calculations, Construction and Operation 

$5.00 ; by mail 5.20 

Machinery's Handbook 5.00 

Manual of Yacht and Boat Sailing and Yacht Architecture. Kemp 15.00 

Naval Architects' Pocket Book. By MacKrow 5.00 

Naval Architecture. A Manual of Laying-Off. By Watson 12.00 

Naval Architecture. By Peabody 7.50 

Naval Constructor. By Simpson 5.00 

Practical Shipbuilding. By A. C. Holms. 3d Edition 20.00 

Speed and Power of Ships. 2 Vols. By Taylor 7.50 

Tables for Constructing Ships' Lines. By Hogg 1.00 

The Power Boat, Its Construction and Design. By Schcck 2.00 

Theoretical Naval Architecture. By Attwood 3.00 

BOAT HANDLING, ETC. 

Flags, Their Origin and Use. By A. F. Aldridge 25 

Ri^er and Canal to Lake Champlain 1,00 

Yacht Etiquette. By Patterson 1.00 

Yacht Sailing. By T. F. Day 50 

Yachts and Yacht Handling. By T. F. Day 1.00 

Southward in the Roamer. By H. C. Roome 1-00 

Art and Science of Sailmaking. By S. B. Sadler 6.00 

Boat-Building and Boating. By Beard 1.25 

Boating Book for Boys 1.50 

Handbook of American Yacht Racing Rules 2.00 

The Helmsman's Handbook. By B. Heckstall Smith 4.00 

Kedge Anchor. By Patterson 1.00 

Knots and Splices. By Capt. Jutsum 75 

Knots. By A. F. Aldridge 1.00 

Know Your Own Ship 3.00 

The Landsman. By Ensign L. Edson Raff, 1st Bat. Nav. Mil., N. Y. .50 

Masting and Rigging. By Robert Kipping 1.00 

Motor Boats, Construction and Operation 1.50 

Practical Boat Sailing. By Frazar 1.00 

Sailing Ships and Their Story. By E. Keble Chatterton 2.00 

Sails and Sailmaking 1.25 

Small Yacht. By R. A. Boardman $2.-5 0; by mail 2.63 

Yacht Sails. By Patterson 1.00 

ELECTRICAL 

Dry Batteries. By a Dry Battery Expert 25 

Electrical Circuits and Diagrams. By N. H. Schneider .25 

Electric Wiring, Diagrams and Switchboards. By Newton Harrison 1.50 

Modern Primary Batteries 25 

Practical Electrics 25 

Small Accumulators. By Marshall 25 

Small Dynamos and Motors 25 

Study of Electricity. By Schneider 25 

Uses of Electricity on Shipboard. By J. W. Kellogg 1.00 

The Rudder Pub. Co., 9 Murray St., N. Y., U. S. A. 



BOOKS FOR A NAUTICAL LIBRARY 

DESIGNS 

Rudder What To Build Series — 

Cabin Plan Book $1.00 Racer Book $1.00 

Cat Book paper .50 Schooner Bock 1.25 

Power Cruiser Book . . . 1.00 Yawl Book paper .75 

Supplement to Small Yachts 1.00 

BOATBUILDING 

Rudder How to Series — 

How to Build a Cruiser (Seabird) 1.00 

How to Build an 18-Foot Racing Cat 1.00 

How to Build a Flattie or Sharpie 1.25 

How to Build an Ice-Yacht — with Building Plans of a Scooter.. .75 

How to Build a Knockabout 75 

How to Build a Model Yacht 1.25 

How to Build a Motor Launch 50 

How to Build a Racer for $50 paper 75c; cloth 1.00 

How to Build a Racing Sloop 1.00 

How to Build a Rowboat 1.25 

How to Build a Shoal-Draught Sloop 1.00 

How to Build a Skipjack 75 

How to Build a Small Cruising Power Boat 25 

How to Build a Speed Launch 1.00 

How to Build a 32-Fo©t Cruising Launch. By H. L. Skene.... 1.00 

How to Build V-Bottom Boats 1.25 

How to Build a Viper 25 

How to Run a Boat Shop. By Desmond 1.25 

How Sails Are Made and Handled. By C. G. Davis 2.00 

Boatbuilders' Estimating Pads 1.00 

GAS ENGINES 

Diesel Engines, Marine and Stationary. By A. H. Goldingham. . . . 3.00 

Gas Engine Handbook. By Roberts. 7th Edition 2.00 

Gas Engines. By Hutton 4.50 

Gas Engines. By Lieckfeldt 25 

Gas, Gasoline and Oil Engines. By Gardner D. Hiscox 2.50 

How to Run and Install a Gasolene Engine. By Von Culin. 25 

Marine Gas Engines. By Clark 1.50 

Motor Boats. By Durand 1.50 

Motor Boats, Construction and Operation 1.50 

Oil Engines. By A. H. Goldingham 2.50 

Resistance of Ships and Screw Propulsion 2.25 

Valves and Valve Gears for Gasolene, Gas and Oil Engines 

, Part I, $2.50; Part II, 2.00 

MODEL YACHTS 

How to Build a Model Yacht 1.25 

Building Model Boats. By P. N. Hasluck .75 

Machinery for Model Steamers 25 

Model Engines and Small Boats. By Hopkins 1.25 

Model Sailing Yachts. By Marshall 75 

The Rudder Pub. Co., 9 Murray St., N. Y., U. S. A. 



VCT 1 19ia 



